Powering a display and RPi Zero of a single source

For the Pi Zero, you can use the recent power supply you posted with this for Pi Zero W and this for Pi Zero WH.

That way, another cable run of USB A to micro USB can be avoided.

For the case, a male-female jack pair with the female fixed on the case with the power module screwed inside the case. The Pi dongle can be attached to the case by getting slightly longer screws of the same size with another couple of sets of nuts (one set as lock nut to the case and another to add the base to the dongle acrylic, so there is some room in the bottom of Pi.
Finally, you would need only one USB A to USB C cable to connect to the power supply as you posted. That can be snaked around and tied up or hot glued to make everything accessible and provide a good air air gap. A mickey mouse 25 mm fan (or two) can be fixed inside the case (with appropriate intake and outlet) to make everything a bit cooler.

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Probably true.

The bit I was getting at is you still have to supply this with a source of between 8V and 32V with enough current capability to allow the 2 outputs @ 3A each plus conversion efficiency
.
My suggestion was to have a 5V supply that has enough grunt to do the job in the first place and forger about converters. Don’t forget you have to have a supply to input to this device and you also have to allow for he conversion efficiency which adds to the input requirements.

Now maybe “I” am missing something. I am a fairly simple person and so am not a believer in over complicating things. I have put forward what I think is the simplest solution so if you are keen on going down what I think is an unnecessary path then go for it.

I don’t think I can get any “simpler” than that.
Cheers Bob

Great idea if you stick to it.

To me it IS simple.

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Yep, thinking the 5v supply that can cover both will be the best idea, was more just wanting to check my thoughts with the other option were about right for future reference. No need or want to over complicate.

Any suggestions on where to get a 5v/5a power supply, a quick eBay search only turned up charges or supply’s that only do 2.1a per port.

Thanks

Core have one, Text says it is for powering LEDs but I suspect that is marketing as I don’t see what difference it make what it is powering. Jaycar (6A) have one, I daresay Altronics although I haven’t checked. Element 14 or RS Components I think would have many to choose from. Really not scarce.
Cheers Bob
PS. Stay away from phone chargers. My pet hate. Most need to communicate with phones etc or you are stuck with 500mA.

You could find that is only 2.1A total over both ports

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This would be what @Robert93820 is referring to.

WARNING: it requires connection to 240VAC mains, that can kill if not done correctly.

I could use one of these, safely, if I needed to. I have experience in wiring 240VAC and know the risks.

But I would NOT recommend it to anyone who has no experience or access to an electrician. Also whatever equipment it goes into will not have approval. There is a whole complicated process to go through to get 240VAC mains devices approved. If you do construct 240VAC mains equipment and someone has an accident with it, you will be held liable.

Regards
Jim

What about this ??

or this ??

https://www.amazon.com.au/CFSadapter-Adapter-100-240V-Charger-Cameras/dp/B07PGP8H8W

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Hi James
Yes I should have mentioned the 240V risk. Core probably do although I did not go into this one in detail. The Jaycar one terminated with terminal blocks but warnings should still apply.
The Ebay and Amazon ones should be OK as they are both “plug and play” type things and you are not directly playing with 240V any more than with any other household appliances.

Yes and Telstra also (used to be Austel approval). Have you ever had anything to do with this? I don’t know about now but in the past anything that went anywhere near telephone lines had to be approved, right down to the brand of mains lead used. Did you know for instance that most common sub D connectors weren’t approved? these are rated 500V and Austel required 800V. We needed to connect some telephone cable and the best connector we found which was approved was the AMP “Champ” series which have a raised barrier between IDC connection points.

Sorry about no mains warning.
Cheers Bob

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Yer not keen on dealing with 240v, don’t trust myself enough for that one :smiley:

The one from eBay looks pretty good. I’m assuming from there you’d just wire that up to a USB breakout board for the USB C connection and then either directly to the Pi or a second breakout board.

Thanks again

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Hi Andrew
Yes go for 5A or more in case you add any more to your RPi. I notice you get a choice of 3, 5, 6, 8 or 10A. Don’t go for less than 5A. Not worth it. I would personally go up to 6A to allow a little more head room. If you don’t use the extra at the end of the day no harm done.

Don’t know anything about USB breakout units, I assume they are basically a splitter arrangement mounted on a board…

What you do is take your 5V and send it 2 directions with the appropriate connectors to mate to your display and Pi. You could simply get a panel mount socket to match the plug on the power supply then cut a couple of USB cables and connect the power wires to this. I assume both the display and Pi are USB power input. You will have to use whichever suits, It has to be up to you.
Cheers Bob

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Some links to USB-C breakout boards.
USB-C has 24 pins but only need GND and VCC. Easy to connect to with a breakout board.
Depending on device connected to you may need some additional wiring.
ie USB-A D+ & D- connected indicate to charger to use high current, in some cases. In other cases it is more like a protocol.

Suggest buying a few different types and see how it goes. Pi should be ok with just GND & VCC.
Mounting it all in a small Jiffy box you could have a 2.1mm socket for the power supply and use two USB-C breakout boards, easy to attach.

Connection inside Jiffy box would connect +ve & -ve from 2.1mm socket to both USB-C connectors.
Noting that USB-C is a complex connection as mentioned on the web page. Probably CE08095 would be the one to use.

Cheers
Jim

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Hey, just thought I’d give an update. Got all the parts needed, connected them up and ran perfect.

Just finishing off the software and once done will load up a photo or two of it running.

Thanks everyone for the help.



And yes, I will fix the screws sticking out the back.

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So the initial hardware and software build is done.

Currently will display:

  • Current date and time
  • Current weather
  • Recent or selected photos from a OneDrive account
  • Status of and active prints via OctoPrint

Going to just let it sit run for a while now, but already thinking of future upgrades.

Thanks again for the help

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Hi Andrew.
Great job. Thanks for posting your results.
I see what you mean now by USB “breakout” boards. A little board with a USB connector mounted and provision to connect a cable end. I have never had occasion to use one but I might get a couple with my next order from Core. They look handy…
I see you seem to have a spare 5V pair of wires fitted. That is a good idea, saves digging to existing terminations later when you want to add something.
Well done
Cheers Bob

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