5 way hat switch

Hi with the 5 way hat switch https://core-electronics.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?order=bestsellers&q=com-10063 do you also have the directional top cover for it
And will it work with the Leo bodnar board here BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board [BU0836X] - 49.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics and do I connect it the same way as per Leo instruction
Thanks

Hi Jason.
Don’t see why not. Don’t know but I thought hat switches were basically 4 way. The 5th switch is probably a vertical one in the centre. Ignore this to connect to the Bodnar board and if needed connect to one of the other buttons.
I have the BU0836A which does the same things But I have the interface board plugged onto it to make life a bit easier. There are a total of 36 button inputs the last 4 being reserved for this hat switch use. I currently have 2 analog and 9 rotary encoders connected and it works really well. I use it with Xplane10.
I would suggest you connect per instructions and I don’t think you will be wrong. You obviously have studied all the connection instructions (pretty straight forward) but will include the link here just in case.
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=180&zenid=a680ed1cfddd22ffc7ec9fc12c1442f6
Cheers Bob

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Thanks bob will do, on the hat switch does it come with what needs to be connected to what? A simple diagram how do I know which pad is a, b ,c,d etc

Thanks

Regards

Jason Gainey

Look it up on Core website. There is a data sheet there. I have not got one and nor have I ever seen one.
Cheers Bob

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Hi Robert

Using the Leo board BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board [BU0836X] - 49.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics
How would I connect the bourns encoder http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1856387.pdf to the Leo board I’m new to those encoders

Thankyou

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Hi Jason.
Have had nothing to do with one of those. If you are using the Leo board it will expect an analog input provided by a 10k (nominal) pot to provide an axis (X, Y, Z). There are 8 of these inputs. The rotary encoder inputs (requires 2 button inputs) cater for 2 switch types (A&B). The ones I used are 18 pulse 18 detent with detent at both switches off. I think X/Y axis of joystick control needs pots.

Re collective video. I have a suspicion that for some reason the author has used one of these encoders and made it look like a potentiometer with some mapping. Don’t know exactly how but I think with 2 of those included libraries. Must have had a reason but I would have thought it would have been simpler to use a pot and if required re-map the Arduino ADC output.

The Leo board does everything for you with a 12 bit ADC. As described in the video the Flight Sim will do all the axis calibration. The Leo board is good as it appears as another HID . If an input is not connected it does not show in the sim. Don’t know about Microsoft but Xplane allows for any axis to be assigned to anything that can use an axis and the buttons assign to anything that uses buttons plus another hat switch.

Don’t know which way you want to go but if it was me and I was using the Leo board I would replace that encoder with a GOOD QUALITY 10k linear (“B” curve) potentiometer and let the Leo board do its thing. To me that would be the easiest approach and I love the KISS principle.

Cheers Bob

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Awesome thanks bob, what is your suggestion for a 10k potentiometer ? What is a good one to get?
I’ve ordered two of the hat switches and the bourns encoder from you guys already but I agree a potentiometer would be easier

Thankyou again for your help

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Firstly I have no commercial relationship with CoreElectronics apart from the occasional purchase of some bits. Just trying to help out on this forum. Not even really a “maker” as such.

10k pot?? Bourns is a well known brand for this type of thing, Vishay another. Don’t know too many off the top of my head these days. Vishay may not be “B” curve, they may have a different marking system but specify “LINEAR”.

Cheers Bob

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Awesome Thankyou for your help

Regards

Jason Gainey

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Hi Jason,

I’d recommend reading our article on potentiometers here:

It’s targeted for using them with an Arduino microcontroller, but it’ll be the same with one of the LeoBodnar boards. You’ll definitely want a B10K (Linear 10 kilo-ohm) pot.

Also re how to hook it up, check out these tutorials on modding a Saitek ProFlight Yoke (I’m planning on doing this to my own one, but with a 32u4 instead of the LeoBodnar board) when I get the time of day!

Thanks Oliver I’ll check that out, this is the one I’m stuck on wiring at the moment https://core-electronics.com.au/5-way-tactile-switch.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvvKBBhCXARIsACTePW8jxbvLgS3REbMqOrScf6nvpg1LdoUjJgkW3aLIQyQTbu_uT2WYxrwaAuqnEALw_wcB
Any suggestions on what goes where on the Leo board BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board [BU0836X] - 49.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics

Thankyou

If you dial up that Leo Bodnar link you provided and look under “instructions” you will find everything you want. The board is very clearly marked and the diagrams could not be clearer.
For the hat switch Gnd, up, right down left are clearly marked. The centre or 5th switch can be ignored or connected to any other button.
Cheers Bob

Thanks bob I found that for the Leo board will the hat switch have markings on it so I know which one is which as the picture of the hat has no markings on it

Thanks

Like I said before. I have not got or have seen this hat switch. Do what I did and look up the data sheet on Core web site
Bob

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Hi Jason,

The datasheet for that switch is linked on the product page.

Here’s the pinout diagram:
image

You’d wire it up the same as this:
image

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Hi Oliver

What is this 32u4 device. Is it a stand alone unit or a plug in for another Arduino board.
About 1 year ago I was trying to find a joystick controller but locally all I seemed to find were micro switch type joystick controllers. The Leo Bodnar board was the only one I found suitable.
I had a 10 turn pot for elevator trim via an unused old throttle quadrant board via the PST cable into the system. I had a wire size problem here so decided to get rid of this set up and go for Leo Bodnar.
This board seemed a bit of an overkill for 1 analog axis but there did not seem to be anything else around at the time. I was not aware of Teensy, It may have done the job. At the end of the day though it turned out well. I have added an analog control for flaps using a 4 pos lever switch and 3 X 3k3 resistors to provide a “switched” pot. And 9 rotary encoders for Nav 1 & 2 tuning plus NDB tuning and in the future I intend to transfer pitch and roll to this board so in the long run I will be using quite a bit of it. Haven’t decided on rudder and toe brakes yet but I think the wires might just be too long and will still need processing locally at the rudder unit.
Cheers Bob

The AVR ATMega32u4:
https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/ATmega32u4

It’s the microcontroller on the Arduino Leonardo, Due, Micro, Esplora, and Yun, Sparkfun’s Pro Micro, and the Teensy 2.0. It can present as a USB HID, and there’s a really good Joystick/Game Controller Library for it.

I’d think the rudder pedals will be ok, the main thing is getting a decent ADC - at least 12bit resolution is preferable, and a relatively low noise pot, so even if you lose a bit of voltage range due to physical limitations you’ll still get decent resolution throughout the useful range. You could also bump up the voltage and use some extra resistors at either end if you need to run a bit more current to help fight noise over the distance.

PS. We’re still slowly plugging away at getting your project up on the site. We’ve got quite a backlog, but you might’ve noticed there’s been a few starting to go up recently now that we’ve got enough staff skilled up in how to get them setup and put together.

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Hi OliverThanks for that.
32u4: Interesting, will investigate further.
Rudder and toe brakes: It’s not the voltage drop I am concerned about. It’s the couple of metres of antenna wire hanging off the very high impedance analog inputs. By the way I have been to measure the approximate input impedance of an Arduino analog input at something better than about 2GΩ. How I achieved this has nothing to do with this discussion but I might post another thread.
ADC: Leo Bodnar analog is 12 bit.
Project: I have been asked to break it down and modify description. WIP at the moment. Will be staying away from Google Docs though. All too hard and not very flexible.
Cheers Bob

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Thankyou

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