This is a placeholder topic for “5203 Series Yellow Jacket Planetary Gear Motor (13.7:1 Ratio, 24mm Length 8mm REX Shaft, 435 RPM, 3.3 - 5V Encoder)” comments.
A 13.7:1 Ratio, 435RPM 5203 Series Yellow Jacket Gear Motor with Encoder
Read moreThis is a placeholder topic for “5203 Series Yellow Jacket Planetary Gear Motor (13.7:1 Ratio, 24mm Length 8mm REX Shaft, 435 RPM, 3.3 - 5V Encoder)” comments.
A 13.7:1 Ratio, 435RPM 5203 Series Yellow Jacket Gear Motor with Encoder
Read moreLooking for some motor curves for the Yellow Jacket Planetary Gear Motors. Have an application in mind but tossing up between a few different gearing ratios or even possibly the Saturn Planetary Gear Motors to find the right balance of speed vs load. 1150rpm might not be enough torque, but 435rpm is a big jump down in speed.
Thanks
Hi @Tyler117800
The GoBilda motors in the yellow jacket and Saturn ranges don’t have any sort of torque/speed graphs available, but if you have an idea on the amount of torque that you’d need for your project we can make some suggestions for you.
Thanks @Dan, rough (very rough) numbers I’ve managed to measure thus far suggest something in the order of 5kg.cm initial to get it moving (first 5-10mm), then around 0.5 kg.cm for the remainder of the travel (~120mm) for the sliding door. However that’s just the movement of the door itself. Once installed it’s going to have pressure on the door which will likely increase this force to say double (really hard to know until it’s installed). So assume 10kg.cm is the number I need.
Have explored using springs to help reduce the force/torque required for the initial movement. Unfortunately it appears that springs big enough to reduce the force/torque required by the motor/lead screw by a meaningful amount would likely be large enough that the leadscrew and motor would be backdriven thus opening the door once the motor is powered off. I could use something simple like an electromagnetic latch but the force and friction of the spring load on this latch would then require a very large/powerful electromagnetic latch, a second screw type actuator or some kind of rocker/linkage which starts getting complicated quickly.
The Saturn Motors are more than powerful enough but they are slow and have substantial power requirements. Having said that, because they will be running at <10% stall torque they will run at what you can assume to be full speed (360rpm) the entire time. The Yellow Jackets are an unknown given that a 435rpm motor has sufficient torque, but that is at nearly 50% of it’s stall torque so it’s likely to be a slower start vs the Saturn before ramping up to likely full speed (still quite slow overall). The 1150RPM motor does not have sufficient torque (unless my assumptions are wrong) but would be more than fast enough to open even with a quick ramp up/down as it approaches the limits. Space constraints largely limit installation to direct linkages/inline installation with the lead screw otherwise using gears or sprockets could have been a possibility.
So from all that I think I’ve got 3 options:
Any thoughts or other recommendations you might have would be much appreciated.
Hi Tyler
I note that you are estimating power to get this moving.
Blease be aware that like any brushed motor it will be at a standstill at start up. That means the start up current will be the stall current and must be catered for. In this case @ 12V this is quoted at 9.2A. this will happen irrespective of the running current once the motor starts moving.
Cheers Bob
That rules out option 1 then if i need to cater for 60A. 15A capable motor driver was probably what i was aiming for anyway so 9.2A fits well within that.
Hey @Tyler117800,
I would think that the Yellow Jacket with high-ish torque (~7kg.cm to keep below 75% usage at all times) would give you an ok speed. The alternative would be buying an even higher power motor and a separate gearbox designed to convert per the ratio you need.
If you don’t mind me asking, could you detail the process you took to obtain your required torque values? I think I have a good idea of the physical setup you’re trying to achieve, but I figured it’s useful to have an exact idea.
@Zach Test process was rough but valid. Took the door and frame assembly, attached weight to the frame and tried to lift the door up. Once I’d added enough weight that i wasnt just lifting everything and the door moved I had my required force. Repeated this in both the fully closed position, and also partially open. Then used some lead screw formulas to calculate a torque and speed requirement.
I think im going to have to assemble some bits first and install it before testing the load again in-situ to see if i can get away with the 1150rpm. That or commit to 435rpm and deal with the slower speed