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Tim,
I was a bit concerned about wire strands shorting out where you put two wires into the Motor HAT. Have a look at twin wire ferrules like these:
https://catalog.weidmueller.com/procat/Group.jsp;jsessionid=980E2A6EE0C287ACDC131385270EE358?groupId=("group32140518468153")&page=Group
or use separate BP connectors.
Dave
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Nice Dave!
Those wire ferrules are the perfect connectors for the job. I’ll definitely upgrade to them 
here are some that we have on our website - Wire Ferrule Kit - 800 pieces | Adafruit ADA5131 | Core Electronics Australia
For clarity, I resisted the urge to solder the ends of the motors together as soldered wire ends has a tendency to crack/shatter when you clamp them down into screw down terminals.
Thanks for showing me this perfect, rugged solution!
Kind regards,
Tim
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Hi Tim
Refer your link to ferrule kit.
You can get this type of ferrule with an oval shaped plastic bit to accommodate 2 wires. I think that is what Dave is referring to.
You should NEVER solder or tin wires going into a clamp, screw or crimp connection. It is not a matter of IF it will come loose but WHEN, as it WILL come loose.
A few other no nos.
Never use stranded wire with a naked screw terminal without the terminal having a wire protector, or using rising clamp type terminal is OK.
Never use stranded wire and solid core wire together without a ferrule. One of them will come loose.
Unless it is absolutely necessary never twist stranded wire before clamping or crimping, leave strands as is after stripping or straight. There is a high risk that clamping or crimping will cut the strands where they cross.
Always use a ferrule with different wire sizes.
Always use a ferrule with more than one single core wires.
As you have probably realised by now I would recommend ALWAYS use a ferrule where possible with any type of terminal block, screw or rising clamp.
Use a “proper” ferrule crimp tool, NOT pliers.
Cheers Bob
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I am going to be following the Assemble a goBILDA Outlaw Chassis Kit - Plus Raspberry Pi and 8BitDo Control! - Tutorial Australia tutorial, but am looking to attach 4 servos into the system. What other boards do I need to purchase to use these servos along side the Motoron Controller?
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I’m looking to follow this with the FTC starter kit chassis, but at looking to add 4 servo motors onto the robot. What additional hat would I need to purchase for this project. I’m just very confused as to what board to purchase.
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Hi Drew,
Welcome to the forum 
Tim’s guide above uses a Motoron M2H18v20 Dual High-Power Motor Controller HAT for Raspberry Pi to handle the brushed DC drive motors in the chassis.
I just wanted to check, were the 4 servos you wanted to add in addition to the drive motors already in the kit? If you can let us know what you were planning to do with them we’ll be able to determine what size they are and recommend a suitable servo controller.
Were you also planning to use the same Motoron Raspberry Pi HAT for the drive as Tim used, or were you planning on a different brushed motor driver?
You can likely still use the same Raspberry Pi and stack your servo controller on top of the Motoron motor driver HAT, but you’ll need to confirm what pins and interface each uses to prevent conflicts within the Pi’s GPIO assignments.
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Thanks Trent!
I plan on using them in addition to the dc motors in the kit. One servo will be from the kit and be used to rotate a “head” 360 degrees, while 3 smaller servos Found here will be used to tilt 3 arms about 30 degrees total.
I do plan on using the same products Tim mentions here, just to make my life easier when following along 
If it makes it easier to visualize, I’m making a scaled down dalek from doctor who, and need the servos to control the head, eye stalk, and arms
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Hey Drew!
I’d check out this pHat to drive the servo’s , you might need to cut the onboard trace to use a different supply though!
Liam
