Hi
Just putting together my new 3d printer today. I have an apparent issue whereby the front right bed levelling knob - even when unscrewed all the way so that the spring is not under tension - the height of the bed is not raising enough to even reach the nozzle (gets to probably within 1mm, which is close, but its not under any spring tension). The z axis stop is all the way down. Any ideas? I hope I’ve explained myself clearly. Any adjustments I might be missing?
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Geoff
This issue has been reported occasionally. There is no obvious explanation. The most common solution is to move the sensor for the z-axis endstop so it is positioned lower on the frame. This may involve a small amount of remodelling of the endstop mounting bracket.
As you have probably realized, the bed plate levelling knobs should be under enough tension to ensure that the bed stays in the same place - even a small amount of pressure, such as removing a model from the plate, can disturb the levelling if the springs are too loose.
Once you have it working like that you can print one of the several adjustable z-axis endstop mounts that are available. This not only solves the immediate problem, but make it practical to use different types of surfaces (eg, the magnetic pad or a glass plate) by adjusting the end stop rather than re-levelling the bedplate.
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Thanks Jeff, I very much appreciate your response.
I ended up adding two small washers next to the front right spring, to compress it and allow for just the slightest increased upward travel to get the bed high enough. This appears to have worked really well.
I love your idea of printing one of the adjustable z-axis endstop mounts for when different types of surfaces are used - thanks again!
Cheers
Geoff
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Hi Geoff and Jeff,
Which printer are you running? That’s an interesting issue, usually, that gets caught in QC although sometimes as Jeff said, the springs don’t provide the necessary pressure to be able to correctly hold the bed in place. This being said depending on what you’ve got there’s actually whole series of prints up on Thingiverse to be able to modify and improve your printer which may include remodeled Z-Axis endstop mounts although they’re usually specific to a certain model or brand of printer. (Otherwise it should be pretty quick to whip up in Blender, Fusion360 or some other CAD with some rough dimensions)
Hi Geoff,
This one has got me intrigued too! I own a V2 as well, and I’ve installed shorter springs, and while I have adjusted the stop down to compensate, I didn’t need to modify anything, so I’d think that stock springs would be no trouble at all!
If you feel like posting photos of your stop and under the bed that’d be interesting I think.
Keen to see how this pans out!
-James
This is the one that I use, but there are several others. The original mount attaches to the plate on the left, which is moved up and down in the frame by the knob on the right. Note that the frame sits firmly on the base.
The advantage of this arrangement is that bed levelling and setting the height are now separate activities.
You can get the bed in the best approximate position for the springs, level it without worrying too much about the height, then adjust the end stop to get the height correct. Much easier than trying to get spring tension, height and level all correct at the same time.
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Hi Bryce, James & Jeff
I feel that the spring does appear to not be quite springy enough, but also - I don’t know if I’m imagining it - but it’s like the base plate (black plate immediately above the 4 black knobs) is not level/parallel to the heat bed. It appears to be lower in front right, and higher in the back left. I’ve attached photos, one of which shows where I’ve added washers to the front right (just above the spring) to compress the spring enough to push the front right of the heater bed high enough to ‘level’ the bed. I’ll be guided by you guys as to what I’ve got on my hands - much appreciated thus far! Ultimately, I feel it is placed well at present - albeit I don’t quite understand why I needed to add washers to make it work??
FYI, Bryce I have the Ender 3 V2.
Cheers
Geoff
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Hi Geoff
Just a quick butt in as I was interested in your problem. I don’t have a 3D printer of any flavour so by no means am I an expert.
I have been looking at the pics for the last half an hour and I am convinced that the middle pic shows the print bed sloping up to the right by some appreciable amount. I don’t think this is an optical illusion my eyes are using the base of the machine as a reference.
What I am getting at here is you seem to have made the print bed parallel to the rail that the print head traverses on which probably achieved the result you needed at the expense of having to jack up one side with washers. Question is, is that traverse rail parallel to the machine base. If this were high on the right side of course you would have to jack up that side to maintain print head height.
Humbly suggest you recheck all your dimensions and levels with respect to machine base. As everything is directly or indirectly attached to this and looks as if it should be flat this is as good a starting point as any.
Cheers Bob
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The procedure for aligning the X-axis rail is to support it at both ends off the top surface of the machine base by a fixed distance. Any convenient pair of identical household items can be used as supports to get that distance the same on both sides. The Y- and Z-axis rails are aligned to the machine base by virtue of the machining of the rails, and are not easily adjustable.
If the X-axis rail is aligned like this then there should be enough adjustment in the base plate screws to allow for any misalignment in the fitting of the base plate to the Y-axis rail, but in some cases the range is insufficient. The problem might be in the length of the standoffs used for mounting the guide wheels - any difference in these components will be magnified at the edge of the baseplate.
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Hi Jeff
Sensible and practical way to do it. But my question was IS IT parallel. You can write all the procedures in the world but no guarantee they will be followed.
My suggestion was that these parameters be checked. Not a too difficult thing to do.
Cheers Bob
PS: It was only a suggestion.
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Hi Bob & Jeff
Thanks very much for your input. I believe that the rail is not parallel to the machine base, but my practical issue is that if this is something that is not readily/easily adjustable (I note Jeff that you mentioned that ‘the Y and Z-axis rails…are not easily adjustable’), should I be contacting the seller and asking for a replacement (if possible)? I know this is not a technical approach to solving the problem, on my part!
Cheers
Geoff
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There is a description of the X-rail levelling procedure here (I am sure there are others). That example uses a tape to measure, but two standoffs of the same height is a much easier procedure. The play in the runner standoff mounts, in conjunction with the eccentric nut, is especially provided to allow for alignment of the runners to the vertical supports. Any additional adjustment that might be necessary can be made at the attachment of the runner mounting plates to the x-axis bar, but that requires removing the top bracket to get at the mounting screws, and is a little more complex. These two adjustments between them should be enough to get any machine properly aligned. Y and Z are not easily adjustable because they are mounted directly to the base, and alignment should not be an issue.
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Hi Geoff
Had an idea that is what you may find. I don’t know anything about the mechanics of this particular machine but if assembly was required after purchase this error probably happened during this time. Maybe the way out if would be to DISMANTLE THIS PART AND START AGAIN taking care to keep this rail level while installing the moving system whatever that may be. Note Jeff’s reference to a set up procedure above. This also implies that as I suggested everything should be referenced to the machine base which appears to be a machined metal block. If the machine is of reasonable to good quality I see no reason, except what I suggested and you confirmed, that you would need anything like extra washers to level your print base.
In fact you are not actually “levelling the print base” you are introducing another error to match the first one.
I think you may find that with care of assembly this unit should behave as expected.
Cheers Bob
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Thanks so much Jeff and Bob for your patient, helpful advice. I was able to lower the right hand side of the X-rail so that it was level with the bed without needing washers! There was ‘slop’ in the rollers and now I understand what an eccentric nut does 
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Great. Problem solved.I think there may be a few others fall for the same trap by not getting the groundwork straight. Like putting up a fence. The first post has to be spot on.
Pleased to be of assistance.
Cheers Bob
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