3D Printer - First print job fail - dislodging from bed

I have set up the Creality Ender 3 V2. All seems to be working OK. When I try and print, the base comes away from the printing base. A few issues -

  1. The plastic laying down has a few dags sticking up. This might be because it isn’t sticking to the bed in the first place? The nozzle hits it the next time it passes over and assists in dislodging the print job.
  2. The print job will eventually come away from the bed anyway.
    We have continuously checked the level of the bed. Tried hotter nozzle and bed temps but that seems to warp the print job and assists it dislodging. Tried slower print speed. Cleaned the bed with metho. Used Polymaker filament and the filament that came with the printer. All have been unsuccessful.
    We have used the print job that came with the printer. It is a big job though. What is a smaller job we could use for a first print?
    What are the best libraries for models and slicer software? Can you download jobs already sliced? What would be the parameters to set to slice jobs for this printer?

Hi Graham,

3D printers can be really frustrating when they don’t stick! My recommendation for new printers is to run through the Teaching Tech calibration procedure. Usually poor adhesion is due to poor bed levelling, I’d look into manual mesh bed levelling if you can’t afford/source a BLTouch, and your bed is clearly warped (My new V2 bed was)

Good luck and keen to see you printing!


There are many factors that affect adhesion, including the design of the model itself. An important one is the adhesion setting - for Cura you get to choose from None, Skirt, Brim and Raft. For problems with adhesion, Brim is probably best because it provides a larger base. It also helps to keep those initial dags from interfering with the rest of the print. For the model, small features on the first layer create adhesion problems, as do sharp corners. You can create a large smooth base to place a difficult model on.

Thingiverse has thousands of models you can choose from. You should not try to use a model that is already sliced - slicing takes into account the features that a particular printer has, and strange things can happen if you use one not set up for your particular printer. The exception is some very small models designed for a special purpose such as testing the bed level.

It took me some time to get the perfect adhesion setup, and it involved removing the supplied bed surface and replacing it with self-sticking vinyl sheet! I have not seen anyone else recommend this, which just emphasizes how specific individual solutions can be. I would not recommend anything as drastic as that yet - there are many tutorials on YouTube that cover the adhesion problem, and you should study a good sample of them before deciding what will work best for you.


New to the forums but have four 3D printers that I use for various task`s.

  1. With my printers I have found that the blue adhesive print bed mats from Flashforge are great for adhesion.

  2. With some of my older printers I have some very slight warpage in the print bed which I overcome by increasing the first layer extrusion percentage which is available in most slicer software, this will increase the amount extruded on the first layer which helps fill the small bed variation.

  3. I always use a skirt of 2 layers prior to my prints to ensure have removed any residual filament in the extruder which may be moisture affected and this does result in a better first layer of your print.

  4. On Thingiverse you can download an Stl file called the Calicat, this is a good object to experiment with your bed levelling and slicer settings. If you can get the Calicat to print correctly then that’s a good sign that your preferred Stl has a good chance of working.

  5. You can also adjust heatbed temperature to assist with adhesion depending on what type of filament you are using or as on my oldest printer ( 6yrs old ), I put a drop of normal wood glue into a container and add a small amount of water until it is the consistency of milk, just lightly brush this onto the build plate and and you get very good adhesion for a wide range of filament types.

  6. Almost forgot, triple check that your print nozzle has just the right amount of clearance above your build plate, too close will flatten and drag your nozzle across previous layers, and too large a gap will give poor layer adhesion. I use a sheet of A4 paper and have it set so the nozzle just drags across the paper.

Hope some of this info helps.


Thanks for the help. I haven’t gotten through all of the tips but got going with some decent prints.
In the tutorial, we didn’t really get past the first tab. The rest was fully sick technical and we found some set up issues. The wheels were loose on the Z axis and the wheels on the Y Axis were super tight. Fixing these gave us controlled bed levelling and removed a flat spot respectively.
We were able to print the factory issued DOG print already on the card. Success!!
We started using Ultimaker Cura slicer to print Cali Cat but I think the default settings were not appropriate. We then tried the Creality Slicer which is a much simpler program. The default settings worked better (since we own a Creality Ender 3 V2) and have been able to print a couple more things.
Lucky we had a wet weekend to cancel all our other plans and concentrate on printing.
Now we are into (I assume) the initial popular & more complicated prints of various toy guns and knives that the kids keep searching up!


Oh yes, I forgot. BOSTICK glue stick (a UHU ripoff) works awesome for holding the print job in place.


Hey All,

Welcome, Stephen and Graham!

Excellent points, I’ll have to go through this list again when I get home. Moving from the Ender 3 Pro to the V2 has had quite a big change in the workflow and have run into some of these issues myself.


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