That nozzle and bed temp should be fine for PLA, have you used any other PLA filaments with your printer so far and ran into the same issue? I’ve uploaded your video you attempted to post as unlisted on youtube so that it can be posted here for anyone wanting to take a look at it:
Also, it’s not the first port of call, but have you disassembled your printer’s hot end to ensure that you haven’t got any burnt filament or debris in there causing issues with the flow since you’ve put it together?
Sometimes issues with minor blockages cause the insufficient filament to make it out of the nozzle or inconsistently, thus making it seem that it’s an issue with bed adhesion rather than with the head being somewhat jammed.
Polymaker PolyLite Black PLA Filament 1KG 1.75mm brought off Core Electronice
Polymaker PolyLite White PLA Filament 1KG 1.75 brought off Core electronics
All had the same issue.
I don’t think there is a blockage, because I had partial success with creating 1/2 of the Benchy model before it starting to move, but I had to heat the plate to 95 degrees, nozzle temperature 230 degrees, print speed 75%
Also, quick question, can you shoot through a screenshot or info about your slicer profile in CURA? It shouldn’t have too big an impact on the first few layers, but just curious to see whether there’s anything we can identify from there.
The most common cause of your model detaching from the bed like that is usually to do with your first layer height.
The Ender 3 is a bit unique in that the bed is manually levelled.
There are some good photos of what your first layer should look like in this tutorial.
If you flip over your failed benchy and send us a close up photo of the base we should be able to see if you have sufficient squish to make sure the first layer gets the right amount of stick.
Thanks for the photo, it looks like the outer walls aren’t even adhering to each other so it’s a good sign the bed height might be a bit off.
There is a video guide from Teaching Tech that covers this with a Creality Ender printer so this should all match what you have in front of you.
From the first video it looks like there is far too much room beteween the nozzle and bed. When setting it up it should be between 1 and 2 bits of paper, if you use Glue or Magigoo you can usually get away with a looser tolerance but is always good practice to keep it close.
3D printers need to be calibrated to sub-millimeter accuracy to get reliable printing results - they are far from 2d printers that are just plug and play. Getting your bed perfectly levelled is tedious, but well worth the effort.
The piece of paper trick will get you a rough starting point from which you can tune your first layer height. 0.2mm (200µm) clearance is fairly standard - looking at your video there appears to be 1 - 2 mm of clearance, or 5 to 10 times what it should be.
Here are some good guides to get you started:
The Teaching Tech guide linked earlier is also excellent: