This is a placeholder topic for “Hook-up Wire Spool Set - 22AWG Solid Core - 6 x 25 ft” comments.
Get the unbranded box
I recently bought this wire and I have applications where it’s useful.
However sometimes I still use this 30AWG solid core cheap wire, particularly for times where there is going to be a lot of cabling and breadboard space is a premium.
Can someone recommend wire strippers that work for both 22AWG and 30AWG?
Hey @Pixmusix,
I haven’t used these personally but this looks like it would do the trick!
These also exist as a slightly higher quality option although I like to treat my wire strippers as expendable tools as I find they all seem to wear a bit over time. Having said that my wire strippers can very quickly turn into an all-purpose cutter so you may get more milage out of them than I do.
Hope this helps!
That’s a banger! 
Thanks 
Hi Pix, Samuel
These strippers have to be used with care. The insulation has to be pulled off in a straight direction with the tool at right angles to the wire. If not there is a real chance of scratching or nicking the wire in which case it will break.
Try to avoid (read must avoid) the “universal” type with a lot of little teeth which supposedly wrap around the wire, cutting the insulation and removing it. This type accepts wire over a good range of sizes but WILL nick and scratch the wire. Another one to avoid is the “Bodman” style of adjustable stripper although I have not seen one of these for many years now so have possibly disappeared (good, horrible tool).
When in a “good commercial” or military QA situation it is quite often a requirement that all stripping, crimping, wire wrap tools and the like are inspected and tested EVERY DAY prior to use. In These circumstances there is one stripping tool that cuts it and stands out. It is the American “Ideal Stripmaster” tool which is one of the few that can be calibrated.
this is what it looks like.
The replaceable jaws cover AWG (American Wire Gauge) and Metric sizes. They only take about 30sec to change so it is not a great bother.
One of the local retail outlets is where that data sheet came from
Cheers Bob
The pair I have are probably 30+ years old and still good. I only have the AWG jaws as metric was not around when I purchased but I find where the AWG and Metric don’t quite agree I go up a size and works ok. If I were to return to the same work force I would have to get some metric cutters to enable correct calibration.
@Robert93820 that’s good to keep in mind.
Electronics is taking up more of my attention as I improve.
This may one day be worth the investment.
@Samuel, or anyone, is there such a tool as a wire straightener?
I’ve see people with notches in there desks for straightening wire.
I’m not sure I want to do that to my poor desk.
Is there a technique or tool to remove kinks and bends in solid copper wire?
Hi Pix
Fasten one end to something then stretch it
Cheers Bob
For kinks that are caused because a large loop has been pulled into a small loop, ‘unwind’ the loop by pulling it out towards the size it originally was. That way you will be left with a bend. Just stretching it will leave a sharp twist in the wire that will eventually break. For bends, drag the wire back and forth over a mandril, or any reasonably smooth corner.
Which will leave a curve in it anyway.
If Pix is silly enough to try stretching with a bad twisting kink in it he would deserve to break it.
Cheers Bob
Without having references to support me here, so just my experience over time, if I had some wire that needed to be straightened I would be looking to replace it, not straighten it. Little light adjustments to get to to go where you want it is one thing, but every time you bend the wire you will be stressing it and repetitive stressing will fracture it.
My personal opinion has always been solid core wire should only be used when needed for its properties, if you can, use multi strand core as it will more easily confirm to your path without the same levels of stress.
If you need to use solid core (for its properties) then it should be used where it wont move (or its movement is minimized).
I think we all have seen what happens if you solder wire direct to a PCB, then keep moving i about. Sooner or later it will fail and snap off.
Hi Michael
My personal experience spans 60+ years and you are quite correct.
The only property that would apply surely would be retention of shape. Bend or shape once then forget it. Try it with aluminium, bent it twice and the third time you usually will break it. “Work hardening” is the term. Copper not so bad but still applies to some extent.
Very true. Particularly if the soldering process has been a bit slow and “wicking” has occurred back up the wire under the insulation. The wire will break where the solder finishes usually back up out of sight and not immediately obvious.
If a wire is going to be subject to some movement the chance of breaking can be minimised by using a stranding of many more strands of a thinner gauge. For instance a stranding of 7/0.2 could be replaced with 13/0.12 as an example. Far better to lock it down in a wiring harness type of thing.
Cheers Bob
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