This is a placeholder topic for “Plastic Water Solenoid Valve - 12V - 1/2 Nominal” comments.
Hi, I’m replacing a 24v solenoid valve/power supply with one of these and a 12v PS I dug up from somewhere. The project is using a Crydom CN240A05, and my problem is it’s residual “off” voltage of .9 is not turning this solenoid off. I’ve tried two. I’m guessing I need to replace the Crydom, but I have no idea of what with! 
Some help would be appreciated. Thanks, Glenn.
Glenn,
The CH240A is designed for AC, so try a DC version.
A brief explanation:
AC devices use an SCR or TRIAC which latches on until the voltage across them drops to Zero.
DC devices use a Power MOSFET which stops conducting when the control voltage is reduced/removed.
Dave
I’ve been thinking for a while to automate my partners orchid greenhouse (no mains power available), and recently bought a water misting kit and pressure reducing valve.
To automate it I decided on one of these water valves, and a water flow meter (to check how much water is actually being delivered. At the time I selected it, I was thinking to use a RasPi running Home Assistant as a controller … but my rain gauge would require it running 24/7, and allowing for multiple rainy days with no solar power generation I was planning to use a 12V battery with your Solar Power Manager For 12V Lead-Acid Battery board. I thought that would provide plenty of power when bucked down to 5V, and i could easily power the water solenoid valve directly from the 12V battery controlled via a relay. It all seems to fit together 
Since then I decided that I have a good chance of succeeding at using an ESP32 with ESPHome to do the same job. Even if running permanently, its much lower power usage might allow me to use a LiPo 3.7V battery, possibly even with the PowerBoost 1000C I already own. Good enough to bench test with my ESP32-CAM with the camera that never worked. So I placed my order…
I forgot that this water valve is 12V 6.5W until my order arrived today 
which has me desperately wondering how I can fix my mistake…
Do you (Core Electronics) have a water valve with lower power requirement, which I could swap it for ?
I note that your DFR0952 will boost from 2.5V to 12V … but I expect that boosting from 3.7V to 12V (or even 9V) is not feasible because too low an output amperage, and it will drain the battery too fast.
Is there maybe another intermediate power option I should consider with fairly off-the-shelf components (my soldering is shitty) ? Possibly a 6V battery Rechargeable NiMH Battery Pack: 6.0 V, 2200 mAh, 5x1 AA Cells, JR Connector with Monocrystalline silicon solar panel (5.5V 6W) ?
Both the Water Valve and the water flow meter have threaded screw on connectors … which I have never noticed on a hose before (but I haven’t been looking). I will pop in to Bunnings today or tomorrow to ask if they have such connectors.
I would welcome your suggestions, and apologise for rushing in with a question instead of taking the time to properly research fully myself … though I find the number of options overwhelming and am afraid of missing something significant (like that a 12V valve isn’t ideal for a 3.7V battery).
Hey @Donald23173
I had a look through and most of our solenoids appear to operate around the same power requirements.
Adafruit did test this one down to 6v and it only consumes 160mA at that voltage.
Depending on the size of the LiPo, How much solar you can expect and how long the solenoid is open you may be able to get away with just needing a 6V or 9V StepUp converter.
Better than Bunnings though … all their water valves seem to be 24V, and look like they are for high volume permanent professional greenhouses 
Finding the right combination of connectors at Bunnings was a real pain - took me 2 hours to sort out 
Too many combinations of connector type (threaded, quick snap-on and barbed) and sizes … at both ends.
I should mention the ones I selected for anyone else wanting to use these Water Solenoid Valves with the common quick-connect hoses … but maybe that would be better in a separate post.
I did notice this, but thought 6V may be stretching my luck too far.
Should i take it that you advise against the 6V battery & solar panel combination I mentioned ? I’m also rather cautious of lithium batteries, since it will be operating unattended, and there’s only so many learning curves I can handle at a time.
Hi Donald
And you might find they are 24V AC as well.
There is a possible reason for this. I don’t think DC reticulates very well around areas where there is possible high humidity or other nasty types of environments. Including green houses.
It is advisable in a house or building to take AC to the point of use and convert to DC at that point if DC is what is needed. A case in question is the now popular LED down lights. I have those and each lamp has its own power supply and accepts a straight 240V AC input. The down side of this is it is not much good trying to listen to an AM radio while the lights are on. They are pretty “noisy”.
If you reticulate DC you might find the positive wire will turn black over a period with the possibility of a degraded connection and resultant heat build up over a longer period. It might be OK for a while and might have some success long term with periodic inspection and maintenance. But on initial installation leave plenty of spare wire for re termination when cleaning is no longer possible.
Applying a protective coating to each termination including any bare wire might help. I don’t really know as in practice I have never done anything like this although I have had situations (particularly military) where the spec says that ALL exposed metal shall be coated with an approved product. Like NO exposed bare metal is allowed.
Cheers Bob
For anyone that’s interested … not being a gardener I am used to the snap-on quick connect hose system; and was surprised at the 15mm threaded connectors on both the Plastic Water Solenoid Valve and the Water Flow sensor I purchased from Core.
After two hours at Bunnings, I have sorted out what parts will link these devices with standard hose. You will need to look in both the Irrigation section for 15mm connectors, and Garden Hose section for the snap-on connectors. Bunnings website could be useful if manufacturers used the same terminology (eg they all seem to use “15mm threaded” for the male end, but the connector they screw into could be called “Female”, “Nut” or “Socket”) and if Bunnings put more than the briefest description on product pages. Not happy Bunnings !
Firstly, both the the Water Solenoid Valve and Water Flow sensor (and I assume quite a few other parts) have 15mm threaded connectors. I want to connect these just inside my greenhouse (close to my Home automation processor), and use standard 12mm snap-on hose fittings for my mister and the hose to the tap. This is the mess of 5 connectors for 3 joins
To connect two of these 15mm threaded items (in the middle of above photo) I used GD Watermark 15mm Poly Irrigation F/F Coupling (Bunnings I/N: 3111779) $1.29; though I did find one from another brand.
There are so many connection types (snap-on, quick connect, threaded, BPS, barbed) and multiple sizes for each. It’s so confusing and difficult to find the right item on their shelf (or in the bin when you do find the right position). For irrigation 13mm and 19mm barbed connections appear popular - but my greenhouse is temporary (the joys of renting) and so I make as much easily reusable.
To connect to snap-on hose, I choose to use Pope Universal Sprinkler Adaptor (I/N I/N: 3111034) $5.45 (not to be confused with the identical looking Pope 12mm 20mm Sprinkler Adaptor American Thread) and GD Watermark 3/4" x 1/2" Poly Irrigation Reducing Socket (I/N: 3100185) $3.75. Why? Because in store i couldn’t find any adaptor with 15mm female screw thread nut and snap-on 12mm connector; or even a 15mm nut to 20/25mm thread adaptor.
I have to integrate it with my automation before installing, so changes may still be required.
Not an issue for me personally, but useful to know. Actually the first solenoid valves I looked at in Bunnings had no box, and I didn’t see any label advising what voltage or power it required !
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