Is it just me or is it that not all sockets on a given breadboard are equal? I find some sockets tight-as and other so sloppy I’m bending jumper pins to improve the contact.
Or is it I’m using cheap-arse jumpers?
Enlightenment welcome.
2 Likes
Hi Mark
Probably “cheap-arse” Breadboard.
Not all are equal. I have a couple of these smaller cheap breadboards and one is not bad as I have not inserted any of those header strips but the other is pretty much unusable and ready for the bin. These pins are pretty much up on the maximum size for the breadboards which I think from memory is 0.7mm max diameter pin. These cheap boards will not stand too many insertions of these pins.
In contrast to these I also have a “Wish” brand board which was quite expensive when I purchased which was about 25 or more years ago. And I still have not found any loose sockets. It is so old the plastic has gone a bit “yellowish” but still all good. I think it was Jeff who said a while ago he had a “Wish” board that was over 30 years old.
But these were and still are quality boards. I note they are still available and some are asking $85 second hand.
But this is very much you get what you pay for. But for some peace of mind mostly worth it.
I strongly believe that some of these problems on this Forum that miraculously disappear and fix themselves could be tracked to these dodgy boards. IF people really tracked down the root cause. Most just go on and believe the problem is “fixed”. Until next time at a later date.
Cheers Bob
3 Likes
Hi Mark,
There is definitely a good spread of quality in breadboard contacts.
The cheaper ones are often a worse shape, and lower quality material - giving a worse connection, and wearing over time.
Not too say they are shoddy, for headers and jumper wires they work great, but if you want a breadboard that will last, definitely grab a couple BusBoard branded ones: Professional Solderless Breadboard BB400 - 400 tie points (Metal Backing Plate) | Buy in Australia | CE07064 | Core Electronics
I’ve got a stack at work and home that are constantly in use.
PS: I’ve retired that cheap and cheerful one you linked for our own version (sourced elsewhere): Solderless Breadboard - 400 Tie Points (ZY-60) | Buy in Australia | CE05102 | Core Electronics
Liam
2 Likes
Thanks Liam.
Is there a higher grade jumper I should be using?
1 Like
Hi Liam
That second link (in the “PS” paragraph)looks pretty much exactly like the one Mark linked. Also like the one I am about to bin.
Cheers Bob
1 Like
Hi Mark,
Our budget jumper wires can’t lead you astray for signals (and some light power transmission): Jumper Wire 20cm Ribbon (F/F, 40pcs) | Buy in Australia | CE05098 | Core Electronics
Or these kits can let you make some neat creations: Large Jumper Wire Kit - 700pcs | Buy in Australia | PRT-14671 | Sparkfun | Core Electronics (See Ben Eater on YouTube)
Hi Bob,
As it is mean to be, we like to offer a cheaper option for those entering the hobby and a more premium option, for under $3 - thats some good value for those doing light prototyping, more experienced Makers and Engineers would (and do) appreciate and purchase the premium option.
Liam
1 Like
Hi Liam
Appreciate that. But I believe that the practice of inserting those header strips into the sockets strains the pin springiness a bit much on some of these cheaper offerings. If the user refrained from doing this and stuck to “light prototyping” I think this would be much less problematic.
I believe also that sometimes these are wired up, got to work and finish up in permanent or semi permanent situations. I think over time if the environment was a bit harsh the contact plating would suffer greatly and cause no end of problems.
Cheers Bob
I just measured a bit of header strip. The pins seem to be o.73mm x 0.63mm. The maximum wire gauge for breadboard insertion is 20AWG (as quoted by all that quote this things) which is 0.81mm.
This equates to 0.96mm diagonal measurement. Now if inserted nice and carefully you might just get away with the cheaper boards for a time but the longer dimension is still very close to maximum. If any way careless it would not take much to exceed this maximum and probably weaken or damage the female contact..
In a lot of cases you end up with situations like the subject of this post.
Incidentally the Wish boards were made as far back as the 1970’s and I think this is about the time Jeff said he purchased his. Mine was a bit later I think but most certainly just in the early 1980’s. Still in good shape.
Another monument to quality. I have a calculator, HP 10C manufactured in 1981/1982. I purchased mine in 1882. Still OK but the only thing wrong is a broken battery connection. I intend to fit a 3xAAA battery holder to the back and carry on with it. Difficult to replace now as the RPN system of data entry seems almost non existent these days although I did find an Android RPN calculator for my phone with almost the same keyboard layout as my 10C. The financial version of this at the time was a HP 12C. Would you believe this model is still on sale in Office Works. Albeit a few generations later and a bit faster.
A company called Swiss Micro still manufacture these old HP models at a price. Not the 10C but do have the 11C at something north of $AU300
Cheers Bob
1 Like
