So this might be a bit of a Hail Mary, however after discovering addressable leds and WLED software I’m wanting to installl an IP67 strip (possibly ws2814) on my roof eaves, which is about 15m and easily accessible via my balcony.
Now here is the issue, I’m a software guy and definitely lack the skill set to install any of this, so I’m happy to outsource the installation, however this seems to be more of a hobbyist thing rather than something mainstream.
Does anyone know of anyone in Sydney (I’m in the south) that they could recommend for the installation? I’ve searched high and low and can’t find anyone!
Welcome, good to have you with us.
Couple of Sydney cats around here who might be able to help. By the south do you mean The Sutherland Shire or did you mean South Western Sydney? No need to throw out your address online, just the region.
If you want a lead I would recommend finding your local hobbyist electronics store. Sometimes that’s a Jaycar, sometimes it’s an old bugger with a pixie tube addiction, and sometimes it’s a cute novelty game shops. You’ll be surprised how many young and old kind helpful hearts you’ll find there and maybe the owner will know an smart uni student you can contact.
Good luck
Pix
P.S.
Lastly, I wanted to let you know that a year and a half ago I was a software guy that jumped on this forum and made a post asking for some suggestions and next steps.
I had no idea how to program a micro-controller, and I had no idea how LEDs worked.
I’m still here and having the best of times.
If you have some python in you I feel really confident you could get some weather-proof LEDs flashing in no time. I (and I’m sure the others here) would be happy to answer any questions. If you would like to learn but you’re unsure how to start I’ve some product recommendations, articles to read, and even share some working code to give you a head start. No pressure; offer is there.
Appreciate the reply mate! I’m located Sutherland Shire.
Installing myself sounds good in theory, though in reality I would get very frustrated or annoyed that the install wasn’t aesthetically pleasing (ie there’s now a big hole where there shouldn’t be, haha). In addition, seeing its electrical, I’d be worried about burning the house down, hence my desire to outsource,
I ‘think’ I want the ws2814 CW strip as that way it can be used for a bit of additional balcony lighting as well as the fun factor for Christmas etc. However then got lost into the rabbit hole of 12v / 24v, power supplies, controllers and defusers. Another reason I was wanting to outsource.
These are some lovely LED strips. Depending on the LEDs/m I’d certainly find a professional. LED strips are current hungry and finding and installing a suitable power supply can be tricky business.
We’re located in Newcastle so aren’t familiar with anywhere we could point you.
Hi Dave
At last. Someone who purchased a power supply with enough grunt to do the job. It does happen occasionally.
Just had a quick look and the only thing I see that could go wrong is that strip is not on the controller compatibility list. But there are quite a number of WS28XX strips that are so there is a good chance that you will be OK. There may be a more complete compatibility list somewhere but I don’t have time to look at the moment.
I think you just did an edit and changed the power supply type. That one is a constant current LED driver. I don’t know if that one is suitable for that controller or not. I would have thought the controller or strip would have looked after the required current as a function of required brightness as long as the power supply has the capability. I don’t know having 2 lots of current control will go. Some one with more knowledge of this controller might know so please chip in.
Have to go now.
Cheers Bob
Thanks Bob, yeah I did change from the LSR350 to the one HLG240, this was mainly due to the fact I’ll only be running roughly 11m and as I’m storing the power supply in a cupboard, the HLG apparently was the better choice, so power should still be more than enough.
Glad you mentioned the power supply, as noticed there was a dimmable version, so just changed this this, which is CV constant voltage;
HLG-240H-24AB-AUP MEAN WELL LED Driver
Constant Voltage 240W 24V 10A Adjustable + Dimmable IP65 with flex and AU plug
I’d agree 100% that an electrician is the easiest method, and legally safer than getting a hobbyist to do it. Those LED strips should look great once everything is up and running.
Bob had mentioned a possible conflict between the controller and the LED driver. Getting datasheets for the supply wasn’t hard, but I was hoping you could send a link to the exact controller you purchased? That way we can check the proper specifications. I have seen one or two things that may be an issue, but I can’t guarantee I’m looking at the same controller as you.
I’d be happy to have a look at the two if you can find the product page again!
I do have some concerns about the combo you have decided on. The problem you may run into is that these two products are kind of designed for the same purpose.
The Mean Well LED Driver is designed with permanent civic lighting installations in mind. This is the kind of product a design engineer would spec on building documents. It’s intended to be used for high-power low-complexity systems. For example, you could use this driver to supply a group of parking-lot overhead lights. These require high power, but only simple control actions such as dimming or timed-shutoff. Here is a page from the datasheet detailing how the power/dimming works
You mentioned that you switched to the “Constant-Voltage” supply, this is a step in the right direction. It may be possible to keep the voltage output from the LED driver the same, as it seems like the DIM+ and DIM- terminals are used as a control signal for the voltage output, so theoretically you could just keep it open and the voltage would remain constant, but unfortunately I can’t guarantee this. It states on the datasheet that the official recommendation from Mean Well is the same.
The LED controller is intended as a “smarter” solution to the problem. The idea with this device seems to be that you simply hook up a high-power supply to the terminals and then attach your LED to the other side, all the control of the LEDs is done via an ESP32 internally.
So… long story short, It may be possible to get these two to work together. My recommendation would be to just get a standard high-power supply, if possible.
A far as recommendations go, we can definitely find one for you, but we don’t really sell anything that supplies the current you’re looking at. I think our most powerful PSU sits at about 5A.
To be completely honest, since you’re getting an electrician to do the work itself, it may be worth asking them. They’ll know how to get a cheap one wholesale and can supply it easily. These PSUs can get complicated, some of them need to be in a separate grounded chassis or have other requirements, etc. If it were me I would probably just get them to source it to save the hassle.
Perfectly happy to recommend some if you decide you’d still like to self-source.
Figure I’ll still happy self-source if I can get guidance, that way I know I’m getting the best one and any additional money I spend on it; the sparky would have just added his take on top anyway if I got through them,
Though if you still think them sourcing is best, I’ll have a chat to a few
Hi Dave
Thought some one (Zac) would dig up some specs. It seems I was correct in flagging a conflict. The mean Well supply you had before editing (24V 14.6A) would have done the trick OK. Although 24V is at the upper limit (5 to 24V) I would tend to go somewhere mid range like 12V which is commonly available. The Mean Well range have been around for quite a long time and are a proven product. There may be cheaper ones around but I think the MW range are pretty well priced and worth any small extra.
Cheers Bob
I believe the previous one was the Mean Well LRS-350-24, which I thought may have been too agressive. The other option was 200, which I thought was board line.
I don’t think you can be “too aggressive” A larger (in current) supply will only provide the current demanded by the load and no more. That is if you have a supply capable of 20A and the load only requires 10A that is all that will be used. The other 10A capability means nothing and just happens to be there in reserve if required. It means the supply will not be stressed an any way and will just sit there happily idling along until there is a bit more demand.
Better too much than not enough in most (read all) cases.
Cheers Bob
PS Means if you wanted to run another of these controllers with more LEDS (or more lLEDs with this one) at a later time the capability would probably be there off the same supply as long as the total current requirement is within the supply specs.
WS2805 LEDs have arrived and they have 4 wires; red, green, blue and white. Now I’m assuming that’s because one is the CCT.
When I looked at the controller it just has two lots of connections for G, D, T … did I buy the wrong controller and need something that allowes for 4pin? head slap
Or can both green and blue be put into the same data connection?
