Not quite. There are dozens of relays that would fit your description. Being as complete as possible saves time and confusion.
A bit of your problem could be the load and/or inrush current.
There is some pretty good info here
especially the section on usage hints. The info starts out about the actual relay and progresses to what seems like the unit you have.
How hot is hot. That is the term is pretty relative, what seems hot to you could be normal. Is it the relay itself hot or something else. A rough test is to spit on your finger and see if it boils and quickly dries when applied to the device. Usually if you can put your finger on a component without burning it is probably OK.
You say one unit failed. Did the relay itself fail or something to do with the driver circuitry. The above site includes circuits which seem to be of your device but only mentions generic Chinese Manufacturers. The info provided on the Core web site is pretty basic at best.
A circuit showing how you are driving rhis device would help if possible.
Sorry, slipped up on that.
Just assumed that the board the relay is mounted on would be rated the same as the relay. BUT I forgot it is Chinese.
The data sheet for that relay does say 100 to 240VAC. Omron is a well known brand of relays and other equipment in Australia (I have used them for many years, particularly the LY series. Very reliable) and I am surprised that it would not be certified for use here, but you are probably right about the board.
Ah, I didn’t read this closely enough. I saw single channel relay and thought it was this one:
Sorry, just changed countries. A bit jet lagged at the moment!
I’d have to check the datasheet for the Omron one, it may well have Australian certifications. But the point about the PCB it’s mounted on still stands - it’s probably technically capable, but you need the certification for the whole product (which includes the PCB).
In fact, it looks like the relay pictured has actually been discontinued by Omron, so @Altus152324 or one of the Core staff may need to confirm the actual relay on the product.
Ok, so another one died this morning, so I assume it has to do with the inrush current.
Clearly the inrush current of my LED lamps are just much higher that the standard lamps, so think I am just going to revert back to running contactors, likely very overkill, but who cares, they have not let me down in the past.
Oh, forgot to mention, it is a very simple circuit, using a raspberry pi to control a RAMPs board to control my farmbot, the RAMPs board provides a signal to the relay board to run my grow lights, which is in turn controlled by the pi running a lighting schedule.
The LEDs themselves would have far less inrush current than incandescent lamps which have a very low cold resistance.
If you are powering your LEDs with switch mode power supplies it is the power supplies that have the inrush problem charging up all the quite large capacitors. For instance I have a 5V 14A (70W) MeanWell supply powering some LED strips which allowing for efficiency losses should draw something like 350mA to 400mA @ 240VAC, yet the inrush current is quoted as up to 40A. Probably in practise not that high but they may allow a bit of “fudge” factor. You can see the magnitude of this though and must be considered. Even the humble electric motor will have an inrush current (from standstill) of 7 to 10 times its running current.
PS. I would urge you to read that article I linked earlier. One statement in the first paragraph reads.
“However, I would like to point out at first that SSRs are not suitable for all projects, and you must use them with extreme care”.
Did have a read, this was the first time I used SSR’s for 240V AC, have used them on low voltage projects before and thought I might just as well give them a try, you know, for shits and giggles, and the fact that I had a couple on hand also swayed me
If you really want to use SSRs you could consider switching the DC supply to the LEDs and leaving any switch mode power supplies turned on.
You would have to use DC SSRs or “Switch at any time” or “NON zero crossing switching” types.
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