I’ve been using this brand of wire now for a while.
It was just cheap stuff I collected from my local jaycar 2 years ago.
It’s served me well while I was bread-boarding.
However last night I was transferring my circuit to a solder-able breadboard and the heat from my iron exposed the wire neat the connection.
And here is the other side.
I’ve seen thicker wire online and I guess I’m ready for that now.
What do you use?
Pix 
Hi Pix
The single core wire is OK for that sort of use where everything is soldered down both ends. Don’t use it where there is any movement or it WILL break.
Plastic shrinkage: That will happen when the wire gets hot. The amount of shrinkage will depend on the type and quality of the insulation.
Controlling shrinkage: When inserting the wire into the through hole take the plastic right to the hole. Then a bit of shrinkage won’t matter.
Use an iron that is hot enough and large enough, there is a fair bit of heat sinking there with the plated through hole and the fairly large wire. 350ºC would be good. The joint should be made quickly and that is only going to happen if the iron is hot enough and large enough for the job.
Cut the wire before soldering. That removes some of the heat sinking effect. It looks like you cut after soldering.
Soldering: The jury is out on that one. It looks like a bit of a mud puddle, hard to tell if doing has whetted properly or not.
What is that clear goop I can see on the last pic. If it is flux what sort is it.
The to use tinned wire. Bare copper could be difficult as it will oxidise for a fair way under the plastic. Usually OK if a good length is cut off before using. Of course of it is a fresh batch that hasn’t been laying around too long this effect could be slight.
Cheers Bob
Gotcha!
Good advice. I’ll ramp up the temps and if I still notice lots of shrinkage I’ll swap out my tip for something bigger.
If my wire is already cut how do I keep it in pace while I solder.
I’ve been bending the wires like this to keep it in place.
Is there a smarter way?
Hi Pix
Cut it about 2 mm after it exits the hole. It will stay there. You don’t have to bend it quite as much either . AWA standard practise manual says about 15º to the board. You have to think of removal later if required.
If that is a sample of the wire in the bottom pic it looks pretty oxidised, needs polishing before soldering.
The top pic is the way to go with the plastic. If you are quick with the solder job it won’t melt much. Keep it slightly above the other pads.
Cheers Bob
Good tips.
I’ll fix the oxidation and, cut shallower, bend less, and give it a shot with a quick hot iron.
This is what I use, stranded wire is best.
For circuits. Separate the individual wires.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/rainbow-cable-16-core-sold-per-metre/p/WM4516
For power. Can buy individual rolls.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/light-duty-hook-up-wire-pack-8-colours/p/WH3009
Result! It’s one of those cases where (counterintuitive) using a hotter iron means you heat the wire (insulation) less overall.
Hot iron and fast joins FTW
Hi Pix
Looks better
Cheers Bob
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