I am looking for recommendations on what wire gauge or conductor area is recommended for supplying power to the sensor as well as output signal wire to the DAQ.
I might need you to clarify a bit more, specifically on supplying power to the output signal wire of the DAQ.
The sensor appears to have quite a low current draw looking at the datasheet you linked, around 3.5mA, so you’d be able to use pretty thin wire. Pretty much anything we stock in our store will work I believe.
If you get back to us about the DAQ we’ll do our best to get you some specs!
I apologize for the delay in getting back to you. I can’t tell whether this is a question or a listing of the specs. As Owen said, you should be able to push this the whole way into the low 30s for AWG if you’d like given that you’re not drawing much current over your wire at all. The problem will likely be noise over the distance that you’re setting this up at from your DAQ, some shielded wire of any thickness you’d like should do the trick for you. If there’s anything else that we can help you with please let us know.
Hi Bryce.
The 30s as far as AWG goes is pretty damn small. Even if you could get it the first problem would be stripping it without breaking. If I was doing the suggesting I would think of something a bit more practical and easy to get like 26 or 24 AWG. I have an Ideal stripper that goes down to 28 and 30g and you can hardly see the hole. I also have a bit of Kynar wire wrap wire of 28 and 30 so I know how small it is.
Cheers Bob
Excellent point, with the right tools that shouldn’t be a problem although wearing it down over time and snapping could be a problem too depending on the setup that is being used. I usually use the automatically adjusting strippers and I don’t often run into this problem with thin wires such as 30-32 AWG. Although, with the multisize strippers I can see exactly what you mean.
24-28 AWG should still go nicely for that application, you still may need to worry about noise depending on how the wires are shielded. Although, over short distances that shouldn’t be too big an issue.
“With the right tools” is the whole key. With the correct tooling most problems seem to go away. The other problem which is much harder is the unknown expertise, capabilities and background of the person you are advising. You can purchase tools but that is a bit hard to do with practical experience. The smaller gauges can be a bit of a challenge to work with and if someone tries to fit a normally available crimp connector they can come unstuck easily. It is these unknowns that is the reason I usually suggest 24 - 26 AWG as a general use size. 22 AWG can be a bit big but is good for a bit of extra current. I generally use the 28, 30G Kynar wire for making “tracks” on development boards.
Strippers? The self adjusting types (of which there are many) were, during my working days a no no. They quite often scratched or marked the conductors which did not pass quality inspection. Any type of stripper that scratched or nicked the conductor(s) was not to be used. If these tools had to have a “calibration” check which is often the case the only one I know of (there may be others these days) is the American “Ideal” or similar. Were very expensive. I think I paid nearly $200 for mine 45 years ago. but for military or other high reliability work this type of tool has to be used. Some metric sizes (7/.0076 became 7/.02 and 14/.0076 became 16/.02 for instance) don’t accurately agree with the AWG sizing. When this occurs I find that by going up a size still strips OK and leaves the wire untouched. If I were still doing military etc work I would probably be able to get another different sets of stripping jaws to suit the slightly different sizing but for what I do now I will put up with it.
While on the subject of gauges it is interesting to note the differences between all the systems. When it comes to wire size or metal thickness the ACTUAL dimension depends on what the material is made of.
On a different note I had a short look for “wire” on Core shop site yesterday. Only got a bit over half way through but quite impressed by the range in the inventory. So my use of “easy to get” in my last post really does not hold water. For that I apologise and next time will have a look before I open my mouth.
Fair point that was my mistake to recommend 30AWG before checking whether or not it could be easily worked with in the project. From a physical point of view, you should be fine with just about anything for this application, although ~24AWG would be by far the easiest to work with.
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