I’m trying to make the glowbit 8x8 matrix work and i have used the guides made for using it with a raspberry pi pico and i’ve done all the wiring and soldering correctly and it worked for a bit with the demo but i moved it and the demo kept working in that it printed the outputs but the display wont light up. Please help im so confused.
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If it was working then it stopped after you moved it, then it sounds like a connection is not as good as it could be. Check all your wires and connections.
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I did and then resoldered part of it and now they are all connected and secure but i could be wrong this is literally my first time doing anything to do with raspberry pi pico and leds (and my first time with proper electronics).
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UPDATE i tried to check the wires so i picked it up again and it flashed green. While writing this it is still flashing green dots every now and then
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Found the issue my DIN was so broken.
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Hi Nana
It would be a lot clearer if we knew what a “DIN” was. My understand is it is some form of standards system. I know it stands for something but I forget just what now. There are “DIN” mounting systems, “DIN” connectors etc but I don’t quite see how the “DIN” I know fits into what you have.
Cheers Bob
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That’s super confusing, but it sounds like a loose connection since the demo still runs. I’d double-check the solder joints, especially power, ground, and data, because moving them can break a weak joint. Also make sure the matrix is still getting the right voltage.
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Oh there is a data in pin ( i think) and its labeled as DIN and i think its for code i dont really know.
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Im going to resolder the DIN pin if thats what its called because when i held it at the right angle it actually turned the lights on and displayed the demo
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Hi Nana
AH. Stupid me. It is of course “Data IN”. Sorry I did not realise that..
All points to a VERY BAD connection. I have been stressing for a few years now about the importance of obtaining at least reasonable soldering skills. Unfortunately lots of people just gloss over this very important point. A solder joint can easily make or break a project and waste lots of time and effort in chasing problems that have been put there or introduced by sub standard workmanship.
I think and hope you have learned a very valuable lesson here
Cheers Bob
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Just to add a litte to Bob’s solder comments. Soldering wire to board nearly always has a high failure risk. If using multi strand wire, the solder wicks up and turns it into a solid core near the join, this then over time and movement fatigues and breaks.
Single Core wire will do the same as its solid from day 1.
So if you must solder wire to board, then try to secure the wire such that it cant move near the join.
Preferred option would be a connector; e.g. header pins and wires with the matching connectors. These will crimp to the wire thus not create a stress point as well as support a little bit of the wire before the crimp.
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Hi All
Definitely cannot agree with that. IF DONE PROPERLY there is very little need to worry too much.
I grew up in the days before extensive use of PCBs and when wave soldering was in its infancy. When the job is done properly one can expect many years of reliable service. Unless an equipment was subject to severe vibration when adequate provision to handle the conditions were built in. Of course there were always some failures but not the extent that would be termed a “high failure rate”. If they occurred a very serious investigation was normally undertaken.
On the subject of wicking. The joint itself will not usually fail but if the solder wicks up the wire inside the plastic where the solder finishes will be where the wire breaks. Wicking then should be avoided at all costs. The way to minimise this is to use an iron that is hot enough and with enough grunt to do the job very quickly so the solder has not enough time to wick much. All practise.
Years ago there used to be a kit of bits called soldering “Aids”. In this was a small spring loaded clip arrangement with a couple small lugs of copper in the jaws. The idea here is to clip this onto the wire just behind the solder joint to provide a heat “sponge” to suck up the heat from the wire and prevent wicking. Of course this is not always practical.
I believe that years ago for super high reliability applications there was actually a water cooled version of this small heatsink used. I have never seen or used such a device but I believe my info was sound.
It all comes down to experience and practise.
One way to minimise breakage but once again not always possible.
Yes and also if properly crimped will remove the possibility of dry and faulty soldered joints.
Don’t crimp on the plastic insulation though. This has happened in the past and no doubt will happen again in the future.
Cheers and good soldering Bob
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