and it works!, the LED lit up! Hooray!!!
It must’ve been the software gremlins; I used exactly the same configurations and image, but for some reason it works now…
Now it’s time to install it behind the TV.
Thanks @Tim and @Trent5487676 ; one happy core-electronics customer here
By the way, what is the suggestion you have here? I wonder if I can piggyback the power from a single power adapter
Very glad to hear about your success! And you can piggyback the power from a single power adapter but it will involve chopping up a USB-C cord to reveal the internal wires. The Raspberry Pi has a polyfuse inline with the USB-C port (thus is safe from power shocks when powered this way) but they do not have a polyfuse protection inline with the GPIO power pins.
So if you replace the ground and power jumper wires with a USB-C connection you can power the Raspberry Pi safely when using a higher current power pack. If the inside of your USB-C cable looked like the image below the Red and Black connectors would then go to the Positive and Negative ports respectively on the DC power jack. Hope that makes sense and this is only necessary if you want to piggyback from a single high current power pack.
Totally the Raspberry Pi 3B+ does have a polyfuse inline in the same way with the micro USB Power so the only difference is you would need to use a micro USB.
Yes, as Tim said, it’ll be the same. Just remember if necessary to check the draw of your Pi isn’t too high off your power supply. Luckily, the Raspberry Pi Foundation has nicely format all of the info you’ll need to power your Pi appropriately (in terms of current ratings for each board) into a single table seen here:
Just wanted to share my experience this morning, hopefully help others:
Scenario:
I need to unplug the LED power adapter (to reposition the power plug)
Once it is plugged back in, the white colour if flickering slightly (not much, but annoying enough to notice during movie) - interesting enough, non white colours are not flickering
Tried to check all connections (especially the ground connections - as suggested here)
Tried to restart the whole thing (raspberry pi, LED, TV)
None works…
The solution was to switch on everything AND reconnect the source HDMI cable from TV to the HDMI capture device.
Must’ve been the issue with the HDMI capture device…
Hello @Tim, @seraph, anyone else still interested in chasing down the inconsistency in version 10
I’ve added a logic level converter circuit to my Hyperion version 10 setup to see if it makes my lights more reliable. I was noticing that sometimes everything would work seamlessly and other days with nothing changed the lights just wouldn’t respond, even with the demo tool indicating that they should be getting updated colours.
WS2812B lights are designed to work at 5V logic levels but are often used just fine with 3.3V logic, I wanted to see if having separate power supplies could be making the logic level voltage inconsistent (even with a common ground).
Digging through the WS2812B datasheet it seems using a 5V supply and 3.3V logic HIGH shouldn’t work, (It’s worked plenty of times in the past to make me assume it always would though) I’ll keep testing my setup and see if it plays up again. Otherwise it could be that my issue was hardware all along and perhaps my batch of lights is just a bit pickier on the logic levels.
Hi guys, great tutorial and great tips for running with toot account. I almost got this work, the only issue is my HDMI Splitter doesn’t work with my HDMI capture card, I can only see the rainbow on the Live Video in the Hyperion.
However, I tested them separately and both of them work.
I tried the splitter with my laptop and two monitors, it works.
I plugged my console HDMI directly to the capture card and the Hyperion can get the video signal and drive the LED correctly with the ambient light change.
I kind of confused now, do I need to get a new splitter or new capture card, or the configuration is not correct?
Heyya mate. Most likely the issue is with the HDMI to USB capture card as some are compatible and some are not with Hyperbian.
This list is constantly changing and updating so the best way to find out what devices will work with your setup is by typing and entering directly into the terminal | v4l2-ctl --list-devices | which will provide an up to date list of devices that will work.
Hey, I only just came across this project and have not been able to find a way around the limitation of the HDMI splitter which cant support people using 4k/120hz HDR ect on a PC.
Rather than waiting for a splitter that will support that, would it work if instead of having the splitter you just plugged the capture card into a 2nd HDMI port on the PC?
Would it recognize the led strip as a monitor so you could just set it up to ‘duplicate display’?
If I can find a way around losing 4k/120hz HDR then this will most likely be my first project.
Good point! I’d say that may be the go, but Windows HDR support is still in its infancy, so I wouldn’t be surprised if your game/OS is very unhappy sending 4k120/10bit to one device and 1080p60/8bit to another. My experience has been that the Duplicate setting restricts both to the lower resolution. Keen to see how you go!
-James
P.S.Out of interest, how did you get ahold of a graphics card that can handle 4k120 in the middle of a silicon shortage??
I am wondering, plugging it directly into a PC does it recognize the LEDs as a ‘monitor’ output to begin with? If not then I feel like it wouldn’t be possible.
I am only just in the process of ordering the parts, I will make it regardless although if someone else has done this and could test it, I would appreciate it
The WS2812 (Neopixel) LED strip isn’t connected as a kind of video output. The output from Hyperbian is just a PWM pin that knows the correct signaling to be able to send strings of data to the WS2812 chips that they can interpret as colour levels.
The last page of this datasheet shows what’s going on with the signaling if you are interested, but this is all handled by Hyperbian under the hood.
All Hyperbian really cares about is how many lights it should split the border pixels into and what colours to make them.
The downside of this is that as far as I know, you have to feed Hyperbian and your TV the same resolution, even though Hyperbian is just going to downscale it.
Thank you for helping me understand it a bit more,
That is what i thought might happen, I guess I might need to find a way to trick a PC into sending a signal believing there is a monitor connected to the other end.
I appreciate the help, Maybe looking at getting a 4K 120hz with HDR splitter is the way to go.
After getting the “ws281x not supported error” and no response from my LEDs. And without much success following the solutions on here paired with the current version of Hyperbian (2.0.0 stable). I did manage to get mine working and thought I’d share the solution that worked for me as it hasn’t been posted here and hopefully save anyone else from pulling out their hair trying to work this out.
Install Hyperion Nightly by following the steps here: https://apt.hyperion-project.org/
(remember to select the Nightly tab) “(The Nightly variant may contain newer features/bugfixes etc. and is rebuilt every night (if something has changed). Use at your own risk”
Turn off audio and give Hyperion root access privileges
and this is only necessary if you want to piggyback from a single high current power pack.
