Has anyone built a voron 2.4 3d printer?
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Hi Flynn,
I’ve put together both a 2.4 and a Trident. Feel free to fire away with any questions you have about the build process for both.
Hey Dan, thanks for the help.
A little premise, I’ve was gifted a Voron 2.4 by LDO. (Stacks missing). Over the last 12 months I’ve tracked down and assembled 90% of the machine.
My problem is because of all the upgrades. I’m jumping from different instructions and videos.
I’m nervous about the wiring.
Can you point me to a decent instruction or tutorial?
Should I get an electrician to look at it?
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My pick for instructions would be the official manual from the Voron Design team. With there being modifications it does make it a little bit of a challenge, if you’re able to post a little bit of a breakdown of the modifications I can look into it and make some suggestions for you. As for an electrician, being that there is AC wiring involved with hooking up the PSU and the bed heater it would be required for those sections, as for the low voltage DC side of things generally speaking sparkies won’t be the best choice for something like that, but possibly there would be a 3D printer repairer/maker in your area that is happy to lend a hand. If you have a wiring kit I would absolutely recommend using that, as doing it all DIY is a monumental undertaking and can be rather intimidating.
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Thanks. I’ve been going between both Ldo and Voron wiring guide. Ldo shifted a few things for optimisation, so the diagrams are slightly different.
I ve got stealth burner, nevermore upgrades. And I have EBB42 CAN V1.2, SB2209 CAN V1.0(with simplified wire harness). I have not added these yet.
Thankfully I have an LDO wiring kit and its labelled. Which should make it easier. But I seem to struggle with it.
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Alrighty, for the EBB42 you will need the U2C module from Big Tree Tech to use it with your Octopus board, its pretty easy to get set up though, just a matter of plugging in a USB-C cable from your Pi to the U2C, then from the U2C to the SB2209. To power your Pi its easy enough to have a USB-C from the USB output on the Octopus to the Pi, then another USB-C cable from the USB ports on the Pi to the Octopus for it to operate as a serial device.
Depending on your Nevermore it may just be a single JST-XH plug that you can put into any of your fan ports, but will depend if you have any sensors in it or not.
With the wiring harness I would recommend starting at the bottom with the motors and working your way up the machine to the endstops, then fans and any other bits an pieces such as LEDs.
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Awesome!Thanks for the help. I’ll see how I go today
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Hey Dan, I decided to not go with the upgrades yet. I managed to get it wired, and now onto the PI.
A couple of questions.
How stiff was your gantry?
Can you configure the pi when it’s not attached to the BTT Octopus?
Did you get someone to look a power? (I’ve wired as per instructions and checked twice)
Thanks
Hey Flynn,
Your gantry should have a degree of movement to it in the event that it becomes unsquared.
I would recommend using Cyberduck and Putty to remotely access the Pi, you don’t need a serial connection to the MCU until you’ve flashed the Klipper software. I would recommend using Mainsail over Octoprint as the installation is far more streamlined. (Install Mainsail to the Pi’s SD Card, plug it in, SSH into the Pi and run the commands from BTT’s Octopus instructions (section 7) after that you would need to have the MCU connected to the Pi over serial otherwise you will get an error.
I had a mate of mine whos a sparky do the wiring for the PSU and up to the bed heater. It might be a small job but for what its worth definitely would recommend a qualified electrician look over the wiring.
Hey Dan, it seems I was more capable than I thought.
I probably spent 25 hrs on this section. So slot of learning.
Im now just finishing initial startup. I have a few small problems to work on.
X home- keeps going. Checking bed size and values
Hotend/ PCB fans - not powering . Though mainsail say it is. Checking 12v or 24v
Installing filter fans today- uncomment in printer.cnf
Stealth burner LEDs -not working (unsure of issue)
I also had an issue with thermistor / MCU shut down, commented out one thermistor and moved other to th start. Worked after.
Mainsail was weird. Had to change IP to name.
Anymore suggestions or thoughts would be great.
I do plan on getting every upgrade possible, suggestions?
I’m going to skip the Lecky, I feel pretty confident everything is fine now. But that might change if I find I’ve shorted anything
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Hi Flynn,
For your X endstop, ensure that it is define correctly I know you mentioned you had a SB2209 which is a little bit different for setting the pins, you would set pin “name of the second MCU”: PB6.
If you didn’t end up going with this check that there isn’t a break in the wiring and or that you have the correct pin define vs. where you have the endstop plugged into if you used the default configs from the Voron Github then you would be using these two endstop ports that I’ve highlighted below.
If none of that works and all the wiring looks fine, you may potentially need to put a ! in front of the pin in your config file, this will tell Klipper that you want to invert the logic on the pin.
If all of the stuff on the hotend isn’t working as intended it may have some thing damaged on the hotend board.
Using the name instead of the IP address is advantageous as it is easier to get onto, also if you have it set up as dynamic IP it the hostname will not change.
For upgrades I’d recommend a nozzle brush to start off with, I have this one Nozzle Scrubber with a Little Bucket for Voron 2.4. If you’re wanting a challenge then there is the ERCF which operates similar to the AMS in a Bambu printer allowing you to do multi material printing, it is a pretty tedious build and not for the faint hearted!
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Hey Dan,
X end stop still isn’t triggering. I check pins and added !in front of pin. I tried a few other things from other forums to no avail.
Hotend, HE fan, Part cooling fan work (increased kick start time)
Controller fan wont work still. No idea on that.
Neo pixel Leds dont work because i missed an extra wire harness. Which annoyingly doesn’t have decent instructions Hartk Tool head and fan adapter PCB. ( I know Pin locations but toolhead has 2 wire plug vs the 3 on the harness) confusing!
I wanted to have this configuration working before attempting to install 2209 upgrade. I’ve purchased U2C V2.1. I do have the canbus 42 which apparently you can use instead but read can be unreliable and complicated. If i cant get working, I will try 2209 and see how it goes.
Thanks for all the advice. All the Voron forums have dried up now
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Hey Dan,
Quick update.
I forgot the jumper on control fan - works now
Rewired LEDs - works now
X endstop- I feel like tried everything suggested. I can only gather th PCB must be faulty. Maybe I can solder a new switch.
Ive order a new xy endstop and hall effect version just incase.
I’m stumped.
Cheers
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Hi Flynn,
Do apologise for not responding sooner, great to hear that you got most of it sorted. With the X if you’re not already doing so manually moving the head to the far left of the bed and then using your finger to trigger the stop will save you being subjected to the horrible noise the motors make when they’re stalling against the frame.
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No worries.
Yep I have been manually triggering X and y, after each change in config file in mainsail. So I can verify what’s triggered or open.
I pulled the end stop cord and checked everything was going to the right place. It was. I swapped xstop stop xyes yes in different each other ports to test connect and control.
Everything I’ve done was in line with forums or what kilpper, Voron or LDO websites state.
What I found is X never triggers but when change some of the pin locations I can get X AND Y to trigger as Y only. So switch works.
I’m now convinced LDO wiring or config was wrong.
The only thing I haven’t done is add a jumper, but that would just make xy common.
No one else seems to have had this problem, I’ve sent printer config to a coder. I don’t think they’ll be much help 
Hi Flynn,
I’m reasonably knowledgeable when it comes to Klipper, if you’d like drop either the .cfg or plain text here and I can look over it for you.
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Hey Dan , heres the relevent text from printer config. i couldnt upload the file. thanks Flynn
[include mainsail.cfg]
[pause_resume]
[display_status]
[virtual_sdcard]
path: ~/printer_data/gcodes
#[thermistor Trianglelab-NTC100K-B3950]
#temperature1: 25
#resistance1: 103180
#temperature2: 150
#resistance2: 1366.2
#temperature3: 250
#resistance3: 168.6
[thermistor CMFB103F3950FANT]
temperature1: 0.0
resistance1: 32116.0
temperature2: 40.0
resistance2: 5309.0
temperature3: 80.0
resistance3: 1228.0
[mcu]
## Obtain definition by "ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/" then unplug to verify
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_4D002B001551303432323631-if00
restart_method: command
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 350
max_accel: 3000 #Max 4000
max_z_velocity: 15 #Max 15 for 12V TMC Drivers, can increase for 24V
max_z_accel: 350
square_corner_velocity: 10.0
#####################################################################
# X/Y Stepper Settings
#####################################################################
## B Stepper - Left
## Connected to MOTOR_0
## Endstop connected to DIAG_0
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PF13
dir_pin: PF12
enable_pin: !PF14
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:400 #set to 200 for 1.8 degree stepper
endstop_pin: PG6
position_min: 0
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Uncomment below for 250mm build
#position_endstop: 250
#position_max: 250
## Uncomment for 300mm build
#position_endstop: 300
#position_max: 300
## Uncomment for 350mm build
position_endstop: 350
position_max: 350
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
homing_speed: 25 #Max 100
homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC4
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## A Stepper - Right
## Connected to MOTOR_1
## Endstop connected to DIAG_1
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PG0
dir_pin: PG1
enable_pin: !PF15
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:400 #set to 200 for 1.8 degree stepper
endstop_pin: PG9
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Hi Flynn,
Sorry it took a moment to get back to you, looking at the .cfg file it looks fine for an Octopus board, so I would say the issue lies with your LDO board.
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Thanks Dan. Good to know it probably wasnt me.
Ive moved on to sb2209 now. Having some weird issues there. Ive followed all instructions from esoteric . But my mother board will only talk to raspi not u2c. Everything works when connected to the pi. Even though i configured kilpper to can.
Ive put it out to the voron forums, just thought id ask, incase you had a thought.
Many thanks for past help, ive found some can be patronising when asking for help. So this has been a nice exchange. Cheers
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