Both me and @Tim are big fans of LycheeSlicer instead of Chitubox, and Tim has made a fantastic tutorial on getting it up and running (spoiler: it should be pretty painless, and if it’s not, come here for help!)
What I understand from other sauces is to be able to get ChituBox v1.9 to work one has to update the firmware, now that could be a problem, any ideas on that one. If you are selling these machine I would think you should have this info.
I haven’t had to update my firmware yet, but it seems it comes with a bootloader already, so all you really have to do is copy some files onto the USB drive that you use for printing, start up the printer, and have it do its thing:
Thanks James, I do have that video.
Ok another question, When setting the base plate, I have seen several ways of doing this, from Creality they say to remove the resin tank and lower the plate, now others say to put a piece of card there, and still another says to leave the tank on and do it that way, which is the proper approach. thanks.
If you mean setting your z-axis 0/home/datum/reference/ it makes sense to me to do it with the tank installed with FEP film on.
That way, zero is zero thickness below the plate, and thus your layer heights will be accurate. If you do it without the FEP film, then 0 will actually be not zero, there will be some offset between the requested position and the real position, either negative if you did it without the FEP film, or positive if the card you used is thicker than the FEP film.
At last, after a long wait, the print washer arrived, so now I have no excuses not to try the printer, So I will in the next day or two try out some Nova 3D water washable resin, I think I am going to need a lot of good luck on this.
As I mentioned during a recent chat, I did My first print with the creality printer, though I got what I would think was a good result, now I have had time to think about it I am not so sure. The resulting print after washing and before any curing was quite brittle, would this mean that my exposure times were a little high, if that is the case, curing would make it even worse. Thanks.
Hi Guys need a little help on this My second print. I followed the formularaft given by one of you guys exposure X 10 for bottom exposure, ok this works, but the raft and bottom supports are very brittle and the supports seem to be welded into the model. and look rather messy after they are remove.
So my settings were exposure 5 and bottom exposure 50, I am using water washable resin, the print looks pretty good apart from the first layers. Any advise on changes I should make. Thanks.
First off, I’d check out Tim’s excellent guide on tuning exposure settings:
5 seconds is quite high for a monochrome printer like yours (depends on the color). Tim landed on 1.7 for grey resin on your printer, but do the tests in the guide to work it out for your particular resin. 50s will be overexposing your resin quite a bit, and if you go much further you may get dangerous levels of heat!
Let us know how you go!
P.S. Exposure settings are found by editing your profile before printing (and Burn in Layers = Bottom Layers):