Hi Ernie,
Definitely! Since the “raft” is always going to be on the bed, you can increase the distance by just by moving the model upwards, as shown below.
Let me know if you need any more info!
-James
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Thanks James, no more questions at the moment, starting to get the hang of things, got the exposures pretty well spot on now, will post and update on the water washable resin on the forum page in a day or two. Cheers to all. Ernie
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thank to the guys at Core, I have now been able to work with the printer and Nova3D water washable Resin, settings for me are 1.5 sec exposure and 15 sec bottom exposure and 10 bottom layers. Results have been very good, except that holes are turning out on the small size, I have tried several settings but cant get it to print then as required, everything else is ok. Any one have any ideas on this.
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Hi Ernest,
How small are the holes you’re trying to make? What sort of error are you seeing in your measurements?
There’s a chance that as the print is running, resin can stick to the inside of the hole, and the UV light that’s scattering within the print can cure it accidentally, depending on the opacity of your resin, and your cure times.
It can also be caused by resin not being washed out of the hole properly, so if you’ve got something that can squirt water into your holes specifically before curing, that may help.
Some people have brute-forced a fix for this issue by underexposing slightly, but this can cause problems elsewhere.
At the end of the day, fine adjustments to your model in CAD may be necessary, as the tolerances for 3D printing, even with a precise medium like resin, can be a little off.
Could you attach some photos of your prints, keen to see what kind if quality you are getting!
-James
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Hi James, thanks for the reply, Cant show anything at the moment have dumped the ones I printed, But I will be redoing them tomorrow. I have made some adjustments to the file see how that goes. While I have your attention, I found a bug in Lychee. I fixed a problem with netfabb, lychee sliced it OK and it looked fine but when I looked at it in chitubox it showed up some holes, I put it back again in Lychee it still showed no problem, so I put it through Asure it fixed it.
I see how the print goes and get back. Cheers Ernie
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Hi James, I printed the items again, but I still am getting holes reduced in size, I changed the model up t0 9.8 mm, but the print has given me approx 9mm, so we have a big differece here.
I am looking at 10mm, so on the present effort I am going to change the holes in the model to 10.8mm, does that sound logical.I need to get them preety snug.
In took a photo, I will put it up on the forum page. Cheers Ernie
Hi James, thanks for the reply, Cant show anything at the moment have dumped the ones I printed, But I will be redoing them tomorrow. I have made some adjustments to the file see how that goes. While I have your attention, I found a bug in Lychee. I fixed a problem with netfabb, lychee sliced it OK and it looked fine but when I looked at it in chitubox it showed up some holes, I put it back again in Lychee it still showed no problem, so I put it through Asure it fixed it.
I see how the print goes and get back. Cheers Ernie
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James, the holes should be 10 mm in diameter, after a number of tries, I have got down to 9.8 in the stl file, this resulted in approx 9mm on the print, I don’t think it is a build up of resin, because I made some extra effort in this area, after the general clean up and another wash while removing the support, I then used a hose on the holes.
My exposure times are, 1.5 and 15 for the bottom. I cured it for 10 secs, not sure about that because it has left a white residue in places.
On the figures above, to get 10 mm I would need to increase the STL size to 10.8 diameter.
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I may have answered the white film, I did a final clean under the tap, according to what I have read this can course this problem.
I reduced the exposure times to 1.3 and 13, still looks pretty good to me.
As said before, the holes are still a problem, but have found a drill the correct size so will use this to enlarge them. this resin drills easier than the normal filaments.
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Evidently the tap water is not the problem, redid everything again, this time using tank water, still the white film, I will try something new next time, dont know what yet. Not sure if it is worth adding to this post, nobody hase answered it in two weeks or more.
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Hi Ernest,
Very sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
What were the tolerances on the outer edges of the part? I came across this video in which Michael has to change the overall screen dimensions of the printer to get the correct tolerances: Get Accurate Prints - Calibrating Your SLA 3d Resin Printer - YouTube
I don’t have a resin printer myself, this step seems to be quite similar to that of calibrating your E-steps to make sure the filament feed rate is correct for the best accuracy.
As for the white film I’d give washing the prints off in an Isopropyl alcohol bath a shot to see if that fixes it!
Let us know how you go!
Liam.
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Hi Ernest,
The first thing that comes to mind for such a large error is to check your slicer settings - if it’s setup for the wrong LCD pixel size, you’ll definitely get errors that large. The LD-002H and LD-002R have different LCD panels, so it’d definitely be worth triple checking your slicer settings.
I’ve just checked out the video Liam linked, and it’s right on the money - excellent calibration advice and theory. How are your other dimensions? Is it only the ID of holes that are off, or are all your dimensions out?
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Hi Ernest,
Do you have a copy of your STL available? I’m curious to take a look at the profile for those circles and how it’s been defined. Sometimes depending on the slicer being used and wall-thickness settings, the outer walls for high-resolution circles can cause very slight differences in actual diameter when manufactured.
I’d be quite surprised if this has occurred here. It was an issue way back mainly with FDM printers when attempting to put together prints with high detail with relatively low quality slicer configurations.
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Thanks Bryce, yes I do have the Stl. the other thing that is concerning me is the white film that is forming on the finish print, I have tried different methods of cleaning ,but still get it.
Extruder Motor 4.9.stl (88.5 KB)
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Had a similar problem with my WEEDO Mini Fount it here. I check the slicer settings. It was set up for the wrong LCD pixel size, this is why I continued getting the error messages.
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Firstly hi, I just joined the forum,( thanks for letting me join ) I have been FDM printing from its early days but now have gone over to the dark side and started with RESIN !!! . I bought an LD-002H which arrived yesterday and I will start using once my flexible build plate arrives later today. I have watched many youtube videos about the LD-002H and particulary like the Core Electronic ones especially the one for getting exposure settings right.
I have a Ltr of Creality water washable plus resin to get me started.
On the Creality site there is a chart of all their resins and a rough guide of settings to use on various printers
They list Halot one, pro, plus,max,lite and sky and also the LD-006 but not my LD-002H.
My question is are any of the printers they do list close enough to my LD-002H to use their recomended settings as a good starting point . As its my first resin printer I havent any idea which other printers are similar to mine
Thanks in advance
Don
Hi Don, Welcome to the forum!
Despite the myriad different model names, resin printers only really fall into 3 methods of operation:
- Laser-based SLA. This was the first type to come on the market from people like Formlabs, and still product some of the nicest prints around, pricey and complicated though!
- LCD-based resin printers. Like the Creality model you’ve got. These are much more affordable, and deliver 90% of the performance, however they do have minor aliasing.
- DLP-based models. These attempt to reach laser-levels of speed and performance at lower prices using thousands of tiny mirrors to reflect the UV light in the right direction. These are only just coming to market so you won’t see many of these around
My point here is that your printer sits in a massive crowd of similar printers that work the same way, so even if you don’t find your exact model, you can start with some sane defaults and tune until it’s perfect.
As for what to do next, I recommend giving LycheeSlicer a go if you’re still using Chitubox, I like it a lot more. It’s worth figuring out which one you like early on so you don’t have to adapt.
Check out Tim’s guides on getting started with Lychee and nailing exposure settings:
All the best with your printing, and let us know if you have any followup questions 
Hi James
Thanks for the reply. I have Lychee installed and it does look a better software so thats what
I am trying to get to grips with.
My main problem now is getting things to stick to the build plate . They stick to the FEP sheet in the
vat but are being pulled off the build plate. I leveled the plate and someone sugested putting dry PTFE
spray lubricant on the FEP sheet to make it release easier but that hasn’t helped . On my FDM printers getting it to stick is easy because you can see the bed and quickly adjust the nozzle height to get a good
smoosh of filament on the build plate but of course on the resin printer the build plate is hidden under the resin so you cant see whats happening till its finished which by then is too late.
I tried two ways to level the build plate, removing the vat ,putting a sheet of paper on the screen and level it onto that and I also tried leaving the vat installed and leveling the build plate to the FEP sheet but niether seemed to help
Don
