Hotend nozzle temp issues

If you use a potentiometer as Jeff suggested only connect 2 pins. That is connect as a rheostat. The centre one and one end. And a linear pot would be best for this.
I mention this as you have stated that you are just starting out and may not be familiar with what a pot does and if you connect the ends you will not see any change and only confuse matters.
Cheers Bob

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Excellent, I believe that there’s some Marlin firmware which you can use from that link that I added above for you. How did you flash the firmware to your board? I’m not entirely sure what you mean by testing the SD slot, as all that it does is provide contacts to the SD card so that the various IC on your board can interact with the memory of it. Is the port itself damaged?

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Hi
I used the inside sd card slot. The 1 you have to remove the bottom cover to get to. I put the sd card into that pcb sd slot and turn machine on but I know it did not read sd card. Thats why I ask the question about how sd card slot work. How would you know if its faulty what I maybe should have said.

Hi Rolando,

Can you please send through a picture of the port which you’re talking about? We’ll take a look at it and see whether we can work out how to determine if it’s playing up for you.

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Hi
Attached are 2 pics. 1 is the pcb with the sd card slot. The second pic you can see -15 on screen. The marlin firmware requires an uno board to do the transfer. I will need to look into this board.

Thanks

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Hi Rolando,

To my knowledge, Creality updates their firmware in 2 pieces, one part on the controller board, through the main MicroSD slot, and the other part through the LCD (the board in your photo) in it’s microSD slot. The important one is the main controller board, it comes as a file marked with the word “Motherboard” somewhere in the file name, and it’s a .hex file. You shouldn’t need to compile from source or use an Arduino as an interface or anything like that. All you should have to do is name the firmware something different to what’s on there (Just name the .hex file with something unique) and start the printer with the file on the card, and the card in the main slot, and it’ll update itself.

I’m not convinced that this is a firmware issue, but if you only change one thing at a time in testing, it can’t hurt.

Keen to get to the bottom of this!
-James

EDIT: I’ve spoken with Bryce about this post, and it seems I had missed the bit of context that stated that you needed some custom firmware to stop thermal runaway. My point still stands though about update procedures, the only bit that changes is that you’ll be making the hex file yourself. You can use PlatformIO in VSCode to do the compilation for you. I followed this great guide from Teaching tech on custom firmware: Beginner guide to editing Marlin firmware - step by step - UPDATE IN DESCRIPTION - YouTube

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Hi
At this stage I have done a lot of testing. What other things can I try. I got the potentiameter but unsure on where to put it. On a 3d printer will it tell you when firmware update is required as other devices actually tell you this. As I mention I am starting to learn a bit about this machine.
Thanks

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The 3D Printer will not tell you when it needs to update, but it should tell you what version of the software you have. You can compare this to the version at the manufacturer’s www site, to see if there is a later version available. However, that it not the issue at the moment.

You have pretty much exhausted testing options without replacing parts with spares, which is not really an option, except for the software. Your testing strongly suggests that the controller for the printer is not reading the thermistor resistance values correctly. This process is part of the software on the controller board. In particular, it relies on information about what voltage it expects to see across the thermistor terminals. If this information has been lost then that would explain the problem in getting a correct temperature reading. Installing a new version of the software should restore that value. Or, if the software has become corrupted in some other way, it can be repaired by installing the new version.

The potentiometer was part of the test to see if the controller would respond to an imitation thermistor. As your testing indicates that the thermistor is working correctly, and you still aren’t getting a reading of the temperature, then testing with the pot won’t tell you anything new.

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Hi
Jeff what do I do then with what you said in your email. How would I fix this problem. Its annoying when your are still learning about this machine. But I am learning a lot about it.
Thanks

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You aren’t quite ready to fix it, because you don’t know exactly what the problem is. It seems pretty clear that you have ruled out the hotend, the thermistor, its cable and its connection to the controller. So now you need to look at whether the controller is faulty (for which the only real option is to replace it) or whether the software installed on the controller is corrupted. One way to determine whether it is the controller or the software is to re-install the software, and that is the suggested next step. I have never replaced the software on this model, and each version of the printer uses a slightly different technique, so I would follow the steps advised by those who have done it before.

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Hi
Problem I have is how to install software. I have tried but the sd card is not going on pcb.

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You should indicate the procedure you are following. A quick survey indicates this one is suitable:
How to update CR-10S Pro firmware - LCD and mainboard
Follow that step by step, and at the point where your experience differs from what is set out in those instructions stop and ask for assistance. Be sure to mention exactly where you got up to, and exactly what was different about your case.

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Hi Rolando,

Jeff’s absolutely right here, the best way to go about fixing a problem is to test one thing at a time, and only change one thing at a time, and get back to with as much information about the problems you’re having as possible. I haven’t heard of a firmware issue causing this, but I’m open to it as an idea, especially since you’ve confirmed your thermistor works.

See how you go following the guide that Jeff linked, and let us know exactly where the problems lie when you work your way through it.

Keen to see you printing again!
-James

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Hi
I started the youtube video. It has links to creality at bottom of video unfortunately they go nowhere.
I even retype the address in bar still nothing happens. Used google chrome just in case. Followed the him in going to tiny machines. He said to download dwin. I saw it there but it was not a link. In tiny machines they do have a cr10 s pro v2 link. I have downloaded this twice a week ago and I put the whole download after unzip on usb stick and put it in printer and nothing happen. Tomorrow night I will google mainboard and lcd firmware and see what I can find.

Thanks

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Creality has rearranged all their firmware downloads so they are now at a single location, listed by machine and release date.
The Newest Firmware Download for Free! on the Creality3D Online Store – Creality3D Store® Official Store for Creality 3D Printers and Accessories (creality3dofficial.com)
The one you need is ’ CR-10S Pro Firmware + Source Code + SD Files + BL Touch’.
1.70.1 seems to be the latest version - that should match what you already have installed. Note that this is later than the version referred to in the video. The first two files in the list are the firmware for the mortherboard and for the display - you need both.
I would not recommend putting all the files onto the SD - you don’t know what the effect of those other files might be. The video uses a freshly formatted SD card with nothing other than the DWIN_SET folder on it. I’m not sure about your reference to the USB stick, because the display board only acccepts a SD card.

When the display is updated you can move onto the mainboard firmware using CURA and the mainboard HEX file. I would suggest that you skip the recompiling of the source code for your first mainboard upgrade - you just want to confirm that you can get things back to how they were before. When you have achiecved that you can look at recompiling the source (with either the TinyMachines version or the Creality Version) to change the configuration.

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Hi
I have decided to send more pics. I cant send 5 sec video as its on my mobile mp4 on this website.
So i cant show what the printer is doing when starting up. In the youtube it shows when starting up 3d printer the screen changes and shows what is on the sd card. I am not sure as I can test sd card slot on computer but I dont know how to on 3d printer as I think there could be getting something wrong with pcb slot. Getting frustrated now as still trying to workout what is wrong.
I was hoping to get the video in this email but cant.
Thanks

creality_4[1].mp4
Hi

Just realise I can send video this way. Hope you can view.
Thanks

You have sent a link, not a video, so it isn’t usable. In any case, a good description is better than a video.

From the look of those images I would guess that you are trying to update the mainboard using the display board - that won’t work. The display board should be updated first, but you have to use the correct procedure. You could update the mainboard without updating the display board, but you will get the result shown in the video - a display where the icons don’t correspond to the functions, and icons that do nothing.

I would recommend that you watch the video again and make some notes about the procedure. Note that you can skip forward over the compilation bit when instructed because you already have a HEX file prepared.

To update the display board put the folder DWIN_SET with all its contents onto a newly formatted SD card, insert the card in the display board SD card slot and turn the machine on.

To update the main board use CURA as described in the video and select the correct HEX file. I suspect that either of those listed will work, but the most likely one is probably 10SPro_BLT_BIL_DW7.4.HEX because your current version appears to support BL. However the earlier versions should work as well. Remember that you are not yet trying to fix your machine - you are simply trying to identify the exact problem.

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Hi
I can’t get Cura to connect to printer. Cura has the printer in there. Pronterface can connect to printer. So I am not sure why Cura can’t? When I get home tonite I will try what usaid in previous email. I am disappointed the email I send with video can’t be seen.
Thanks

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Do not attempt to update the display board if you cannot connect with Cura. You could end up with a display panel that makes no sense and will be impossible to use to fix the problem with Cura. You need to fix the Cura connection problem first.

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