Hi all!
On a set of speakers - Logitech Z623, the power button is pretty broken. Could anybody help in identifying what the switch is? I’ve attached a couple of pictures of the front and rear of the PCB. Thanks heaps!
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Hey Jacob,
Welcome to the forum!
Is the switch latching? Or momentary? Also does it have any markings or a model number on the board?
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Hi Bryce! Thanks for your reply.
The switch itself is pretty much dead I think. I’ll try to explain what it’s doing, so it’s on a set of speakers, so when I push the button on, there’s also a light that indicates power, and the light flickers on and off and you can tell that there is something wrong with the switch not just the light because the speakers themselves also crackle and sounds start and stop exactly like the LED flickers. I have to kind of wobble the button with my thumb until the switch gets in a position where the light stays on and the speakers stop crackling. Even when it’s on you can wobble it with your thumb again and it’ll crackle between on and off. Sorry if that doesn’t make any sense does that answer the question?
There’s no markings on the PCB, the markings that are there I’m pretty sure are for other components. I was kind hoping somebody would be able to identify it and I can replace it, I’ve got semi-ok soldering skills with simple stuff like replacing a switch, but just don’t know where to buy a new switch or what I’d need.
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Hi Jacob
Sounds like a latching switch. Push ON and push again OFF, is that correct? With a plastic sort of rod and the actual button is captive in the case and actuates this rod and thus the switch. Is this the case? Also where is the light, in the switch or external somewhere else on the board.
I think identification will be pretty hard unless you strike someone who works at Logitech or someone who happens to have one apart or scrapped.
Suggest you remove the switch and do some pertinent measuring. Also some detailed pix would not go astray. I think that will be your best chance of getting any useful reply.
Do your soldering skills extend to removing components. If not get some assistance as this board will have plated through holes and fairly easily damaged.
Cheers Bob
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Yes that is correct. Push for on and then push again for off. The plastic button itself is seperate to the switch and stay with the body of the speaker. I think your description of the switch itself is also correct. The rod is retained inside the switch itself. The light is a seperate item on the PCB.
I have the speaker pretty easy to pull apart, I’ve taken all the screws etc apart, do you think more pictures? Could you let me know exactly what kind of pictures you think would help more than the ones in the OP?
Soldering I’m ok, I’m pretty confident I could remove and replace the switch. I’ve done plenty of through-hole components before. Probably wouldn’t be keen on removing it first as even though it doesn’t work properly I still kinda need it to use the speakers haha.
Thanks.
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Hi Jacob
Not the “through hole” so much but the “plated through hole” that is of concern. Damage to that could spell trouble. Particularly if there are multiple layers as well as the top and bottom. Also the tracks seem to be on top of the board and solder connections not accessible when the switch is in position.
Whatever it takes to identify this device. Particularly any markings on the body.
There is an old story about having a cake and eating it. If you need to remove it, wear it or put up with it. You can’t have both unless you can get enough access otherwise.
Would be nice to know what type it is. Obviously double pole as it controls a light, but is it DPDT or DPST and what do the connection pins do I don’t think there is any laid down standard for this, you will have to find out yourself. This is of course in data sheets if it can be identified from markings.
Cheers Bob
PS Have you tried Logitech? You probably will not get far out may be worth a try.
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Yeah cool. I’ll pull apart again tomorrow and take some more photos. It was a couple of weeks ago I took those pictures, from memory I struggled to get closer without it losing focus but I’ll give it ago.
Alternatively, if it’d be easier do you know of anybody that I could take it to that could identify the switch and suggest a replacement? I took it to Jaycar and he said that’s out of depth for them, the guy I spoke to was the one that put me onto this forum.
Haven’t tried Logitech, excuse my ignorance but my logic behind not trying them was that this is a known issue with these speakers so even if I got mega lucky and they could sell me an OEM replacement the same thing would probably happen down the line? I dunno, maybe as a last resort!
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If it’s a known issue somebody must have found a replacement.
Anybody on this forum??? Cmon guys. Help out.
You may be able to mount another switch in the panel in place of the button and run some wires to the board positions. You will first have to determine which board position does what and work out the connections.
Cheers Bob
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It’s a known issue but all the YouTube videos I’ve looked up just kinda tell you to blow the thing out with compressed air or something, more of a temporary solution as it’d for sure have to start doing it again. That’s why I thought I’d go down this path of trying to find a replacement.
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Yes U-tube does do that sometimes. I have occasionally got some good clues like finding out where the pollen filter is on my car but a lot of the info is how you get an item out of the box and unwrap it. Anything for 5mins of fame.
Sorry I could not be more help but I have no more ideas without actually seeing the unit.
Cheers Bob
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you could replace it with a dpdt latching push button switch…the light problem is an easy work around.
once you find which terminal of the switch is power out simply wire a replacement in place of the original…or if you can get it to run as is and the light wont light put a meter across the light and measure is voltage,most likely same as input power…jaycar or core should be able to find some replacement but the extra globe you will have to find a place to fit it…it should be an easy modd…inmop…also try wagner or google for a switch…it should not be hard to find at all…
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So you think maybe take it back to Jaycar and hope I get somebody else? The guy I got didn’t think they could help but maybe someone else could…
I could possibly be misunderstanding your post, but the light should sort itself out right? Only reason I was mentioning the light was because it’s a visual indicator that the switch is not staying ‘on’ even when pushed on. So if I get a switch that works that should be it? Or am I getting confused?
Thanks heaps again guys!
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a push button switch push on and push off …if the light is indepandant of the switch it should work…dp/dt push button…
but as long as you place the switch with the holes matching on the pcb it should be ok…
check these stores / wagner is in N.S.W
rockby is in Melb… altronics is online… all are online… um element 14 ex farnell
speedy spares in melb…
what brand make and model is the device i see if i can find a switch direct 4 you…
um international dynamics in melb…
rs components…try looking up these…
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if its you causing too much trauma just replace with a dp/dt toggle…simple easy fix the switch will electrically match the pcb …pin for pin all 3 rows of two pins …
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Yeah good stuff, thanks heaps for your help. If you know of anybody else I could take it to apart from jaycar around Newcastle who might be able to sell me a switch let me know.
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Hi Jacob.
Try Element 14. They have a switch which may suit.
Element 14 stock no 1435768.
They are supplied in multiples of 10 but they do have a data sheet on the web site which will give all dimensions and connection details. Also manufacturer and manufacturer’s number
Man. Alps Alpine, No SPPH410100.
You have your switch in front of you so can check dimensions and armed with a manufacturer and part number you may be able to find a source for a single switch. Even if you have to purchase 10 it is still only $14.50 and you can spend more than this chasing around.
Cheers Bob
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Add on.
RS Components have Alps Alpine SPPH420100, Stock code 123-9052 in packs of 5.
Refer data sheet for this series for the difference between switches. Slight difference may not matter.
Cheers Bob
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Niiiiiiiiice I’ve found both of them. I’ll pull it apart again when I get a chance and check it against the data sheet and report back. They look pretty close! Thanks heaps!
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your switch for instance there was only 100000 of them ever made or less.I.E…e.g.
they were produced …by design…we live in a disposable society therefore…
the product run for that model of device whatever it may be, was 100000 there fore custom design of components is not uncommon…they pay for themselves due to high turn over…specially if it was made in china to start with…
ok this post may not make sense…let me clear it up for others…
i worked in mass production /lines/…
parts are custom designed…for the job however many
the engineers design parts that are of uncommon shapes and dimensions…and then made to order…
destined by batch …that is to say there were only 10000 switches of that ever made because they were designed for one job only or batch only and no spare parts is often common for the latter reason i stated…
So this kinda got put on the backburner, I had a very unfortunate person tragedy the day after my last post. Time is passing now though and I wanted to get back onto this to distract myself. So I found a data sheet for the switch (they both looked the same dimensions-wise) and I’ve pulled the speaker apart to compare.
Here is a snip from the dimensions sheet I found:
Now it looks extremely close. Very close, I’ll start with the similarities. The pin spacing looks bang-on. Maybe not in the pictures because I struggled to hold the ruler in the right spot while taking a picture. But about 5.5mm between the rows of pins and 5mm long for each row (of 3 pins)
There isn’t a space in the PCB for a locating pin but I’m guessing that is just plastic and you could just snip it off with some nail clippers or something.
Where it differs though is the part that actually travels when pressed. On the speakers it seems to be much shorter. The specs sheet for that new switch says 9.5mm from the top of the housing to the very top, I get 5, maybe 5.5. So about 4mm difference:
(Due to only being able to upload 5 images per post I’ll contine in the next post)
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